“I cannot help thinking but what it will appear a little strange that, at this season of the year, we should be three weeks in getting fifty leagues, for so long is it since we pass’d Cape Brett; but it will hardly be credited that in the midst of summer and in the latitude of 35 degrees South such a gale of wind as we have had could have happened, which for its strength and continuance was such as I hardly was ever in before.  Fortunately at this time we were a good distance from land, otherwise it would have proved fatal to us.”

Vegetable sheep.

On 2nd January 1770 Cook fixed the position of Cape Maria van Diemen, giving it as 34 degrees 30 minutes South, 187 degrees 18 minutes West of Greenwich.  Admiral Wharton remarks that this is extraordinarily correct, seeing that the ship was never close to the Cape, and the observations were all taken in very bad weather.  The latitude is exact, and the longitude only three miles out.  He missed seeing Kaipara Harbour, one of the few good ones on the west coast, and describes the land as having a most desolate and inhospitable appearance, nothing but sandhills with hardly a sign of vegetation on them, and says:  “If we was once clear of it, I am determined not to come so near again if I can avoid it, unless we have a very favourable wind indeed.”  On the 11th, a high mountain, its summit covered with snow, was seen, and named Mount Egmont; Wharton gives its height as 8,300 feet, and describes it as a magnificent conical mountain surrounded on three sides by the sea.  Banks notes on the sides of the hill “many white lumps in companies which bore much resemblance to flocks of sheep.”  These were a peculiar plant, Raoulia mammillaris (Hooker), known in New Zealand as vegetable sheep.  Fires were seen, the first sign of inhabitants on the west coast.

On the 14th, thinking he was in the entrance of a large bay, Cook ran in under the southern coast, and finding it broken into promising-looking bays, determined to run into one and careen the ship, as she was very foul; it is now called Ship Cove, in Queen Charlotte’s Sound.  Here they were at once visited by canoes, whose fully armed occupants commenced acquaintance by “heaving a few stones against the ship.”  Tupia opened a conversation, and a few ventured on board, but did not make a long stay.  Cook then landed to look for water, and soon found an excellent supply, and “as to wood the land is here an entire forest.”  Whilst he was away, the crew got out the nets, and caught about 300 pounds of fish.  Some natives also came off with fish, and though it was not good, Cook ordered it to be bought, in order to open up trade with them.  However, they soon found these people were inclined to be quarrelsome and threatening, and as the ship was in an awkward position, being already hove down for cleaning, a charge of small shot was fired at the worst offender, which quickly taught them to behave better in future.