The ghauts or ferries are constantly changing, and a long bamboo with a bit of white rag affixed, shows where the boats and boatmen are to be found.  In many instances the track is a mere cattle path, and hundreds of cross openings, leading into the tall jungle grass, are apt to bewilder and mislead the traveller.  During the dry season these jungles are the resort of great herds of cattle and tame buffaloes, which trample down the dry stalks, and force their way into the innermost recesses of the wilderness of grass, which grows ten to twelve feet high.  If you once lose your path you may wander for miles, until your weary horse is almost unable to stumble on.  In such a case, the best way is to take it coolly, and halloo till a herdsman or thatch-cutter comes to your rescue.  The knowledge of the jungles displayed by these poor ignorant men is wonderful; they know every gully and watercourse, every ford and quicksand, and they betray not the slightest sign of fear, although they know that at any moment they may come across a herd of wild buffalo, a savage rhinoceros, or even a royal tiger.

The tracks of rhinoceros are often seen, but although I have frequently had these pointed out to me when out tiger shooting, I only saw two while I lived in that district.

The first occasion was after a night of discomfort such as I have fortunately seldom experienced.  I had been away at a neighbouring factory in Purneah, some eighteen or twenty miles from my bungalow.  My companion had been my predecessor in the management, and was supposed to be well acquainted with the country.  We had gone over to one of the outworks across the river, and I had received charge of the place from him.  It was a lonely solitary spot; the house was composed of grass walls plastered with mud, and had not been used for some time.  F. proposed that we should ride over to see H., to whom he would introduce me as he would be one of my nearest neighbours, and would give us a comfortable dinner and bed, which there was no chance of our procuring where we were.

We plunged at once into the mazy labyrinths of the jungle, and soon emerged on the high sandy downs, stretching mile beyond mile along the southern bank of the ever-changing river.  Having lost our way, we got to the factory after dark, but a friendly villager volunteered his services as guide, and led us safely to our destination.  After a cheerful evening with H., we persuaded him to accompany us back next day.  He took out his dogs, and we had a good course after a hare, killing two jackals, and sending back the dogs by the sweeper.  At Burgamma, the outwork, we stopped to tiffin on some cold fowl we had brought with us.  The old factory head man got us some milk, eggs, and chupatties; and about three in the afternoon we started for the head factory.  In an evil moment F. proposed that, as we were near another outwork called Fusseah, we should diverge thither, I could take over charge, and we could thus