argument, not only out of loyalty to the Expedition, but because Peruvian gentlemen always regard the carrying of a load as extremely undignified and improper.  I have known one of the most energetic and efficient business men in Peru, a highly respected gentleman in a mountain city, so to dislike being obliged to carry a rolled and unmounted photograph, little larger than a lead pencil, that he sent for a cargador, an Indian porter, to bear it for him!

As a matter of fact, Professor Coello was perfectly willing to do his share and more; but neither he nor we were anxious to climb with heavy packs on our backs, in the rarefied air of elevations several thousand feet higher than Mont Blanc.  The argument with the Indians was long and verbose and the offerings of money and goods were made more and more generous.  All was in vain.  We finally came to realize that whatever supplies and provisions were carried up Coropuna would have to be borne on our own shoulders.  That evening the top of the truncated dome, which was just visible from the valley near our camp, was bathed in a roseate Alpine glow, unspeakably beautiful.  The air, however, was very bitter and the neighboring brook froze solid.  During the night the gendarme’s mule became homesick and disappeared with Coello’s horse.  Gamarra was sent to look for the strays, with orders to follow us as soon as possible.

As no bearers or carriers were to be secured, it was essential to persuade the Tejadas to take their pack mules up as far as the snow, a feat they declined to do.  The mules, Don Pablo said, had already gone as far as and farther than mules had any business to go.  Soon after reaching camp Tucker had gone off on a reconnaissance.  He reported that there was a path leading out of the canyon up to the llama pastures on the lower slopes of the mountains.  The arrieros denied the accuracy of his observations.  However, after a long argument, they agreed to go as far as there was a good path, and no farther.  There was no question of our riding.  It was simply a case of getting the loads as high up as possible before we had to begin to carry them ourselves.  It may be imagined that the arrieros packed very slowly and grudgingly, although the loads were now considerably reduced.  Finally, leaving behind our saddles, ordinary supplies, and everything not considered absolutely necessary for a two weeks’ stay on the mountain, we set off.

We could easily walk faster than the loaded mules, and thought it best to avoid trouble by keeping far enough ahead so as not to hear the arrieros’ constant complaints.  After an hour of not very hard climbing over a fairly good llama trail, the Tejadas stopped at the edge of the pastures and shouted to us to come back.  We replied equally vociferously, calling them to come ahead, which they did for half an hour more, slowly zigzagging up a slope of coarse, black volcanic sand.  Then they not only stopped but commenced to unload the mules.  It was necessary