small windows and a series of ventilating shafts under
the house. The lintels of the windows and of
the small apertures leading into the subterranean
shafts were of stone. There were no windows on
the sunny north side or on the ends, but there were
four on the south side through which it would have
been possible to secure access to the stores of maize,
potatoes, or other provisions placed here for safe-keeping.
It will be recalled that the Incas maintained an extensive
system of public storehouses, not only in the centers
of population, but also at strategic points on the
principal trails. Yurak Rumi is on top of the
ridge between the Salcantay and Huadquina valleys,
probably on an ancient road which crossed the province
of Uilcapampa. As such it was interesting; but
to compare it with Ollantaytambo, as the foreman had
done, was to liken a cottage to a palace or a mouse
to an elephant. It seems incredible that anybody
having actually seen both places could have thought
for a moment that one was “as good as the other.”
To be sure, the foreman was not a trained observer
and his interest in Inca buildings was probably of
the slightest. Yet the ruins of Ollantaytambo
are so well known and so impressive that even the most
casual traveler is struck by them and the natives
themselves are enormously proud of them. The
real cause of the foreman’s inaccuracy was probably
his desire to please. To give an answer which
will satisfy the questioner is a common trait in Peru
as well as in many other parts of the world.
Anyhow, the lessons of the past few days were not lost
on us. We now understood the skepticism which
had prevailed regarding Lizarraga’s discoveries.
It is small wonder that the occasional stories about
Machu Picchu which had drifted into Cuzco had never
elicited any enthusiasm nor even provoked investigation
on the part of those professors and students in the
University of Cuzco who were interested in visiting
the remains of Inca civilization. They knew only
too well the fondness of their countrymen for exaggeration
and their inability to report facts accurately.
Obviously, we had not yet found Uiticos. So,
bidding farewell to Senora Carmen, we crossed the
Urubamba on the bridge of Colpani and proceeded down
the valley past the mouth of the Lucumayo and the
road from Panticalla, to the hamlet of Chauillay, where
the Urubamba is joined by the Vilcabamba River. [11]
Both rivers are restricted here to narrow gorges,
through which their waters rush and roar on their
way to the lower valley. A few rods from Chauillay
was a fine bridge. The natives call it Chuquichaca!
Steel and iron have superseded the old suspension
bridge of huge cables made of vegetable fiber, with
its narrow roadway of wattles supported by a network
of vines. Yet here it was that in 1572 the military
force sent by the viceroy, Francisco de Toledo, under
the command of General Martin Hurtado and Captain
Garcia, found the forces of the young Inca drawn up