[A chain of volcanoes.] Beginning at the south-eastern extremity, the volcanoes of Bulusan, Albay, Mazaraga, Iriga, Isarog, and Colasi—­the last on the northern side of San Miguel bay—­are situated in a straight line, extending from the south-east to the north-west.  Besides these, there is the volcano of Buhi, or Malinao, a little to the north-east of the line.  The hamlets in the valley I have mentioned are situated in a second line parallel to that of the volcanoes.  The southern portion of the province is sparsely inhabited, and but few streams find their way from its plateau into the central valley.  The range of volcanoes shuts out, as I have said, the north-east winds, and condenses their moisture in the little lakes scattered on its slopes.  The south-west portion of Camarines, therefore, is dry during the north-east monsoon, and enjoys its rainy season during the prevalence of the winds that blow from the south-west.  The so-called dry season which, so far as South Camarines is concerned, begins in November, is interrupted, however, by frequent showers; but from January to May scarcely a drop of rain falls.  The change of monsoon takes place in May and June; and its arrival is announced by violent thunderstorms and hurricanes, which frequently last without cessation for a couple of weeks, and are accompanied by heavy rains.  These last are the beginning of the wet season proper, which lasts till October.  The road passes the hamlets of Camalig, Guinobatan, Ligao, Oas and Polangui, situated in a straight line on the banks of the river Quinali, which, after receiving numerous tributary streams, becomes navigable soon after passing Polangui.  Here I observed a small settlement of huts, which is called after the river.  Each of the hamlets I have mentioned, with the exception of the last, has a population of about fourteen thousand souls, although they are situated not more than half a league apart.

[Priestly assistance.] The convents in this part of the country are large, imposing buildings, and their incumbents, who were mostly old men, were most hospitable and kind to me.  Every one of them insisted upon my staying with him, and, after doing all he could for me, passed me on to his next colleague with the best recommendations.  I wished to hire a boat at Polangui to cross the lake of Batu, but the only craft I could find were a couple of barotos about eight feet long, hollowed out of the trunks of trees and laden with rice.  To prevent my meeting with any delay, the padre purchased the cargo of one of the boats, on the condition of its being immediately unladen; and this kindness enabled me to continue my journey in the afternoon.

[The priests’ importance.] If a traveller gets on good terms with the priests he seldom meets with any annoyances.  Upon one occasion I wished to make a little excursion directly after lunch, and at a quarter past eleven everything was ready for a start; when I happened to say that it was a pity to have to wait three-quarters of an hour for the meal.  In a minute or two twelve o’clock struck; all work in the village ceased, and we sat down to table:  it was noon.  A message had been sent to the village bell-ringer that the Senor Padre thought he must be asleep, and that it must be long past twelve as the Senor Padre was hungry.  Il est l’heure que votre Majeste desire.