In passing the crowds of carriages very little display of female beauty is observed, and although well-dressed above, one cannot but revert to their wearing no stockings beneath.

On the Prado is a small theatre, but so inferior that the building scarce deserves the name:  the acting was equally bad.  This amusement meets with little encouragement in Manila and, I was told, was discountenanced by the Governor.

[A tertulia.] I had the pleasure during our stay of attending a tertulia in the city.  The company was not a large one, comprising some thirty or forty ladies and about sixty gentlemen.  It resembled those of the mother country.  Dancing was introduced at an early hour, and continued till a few minutes before eleven o’clock, at which time the gates of the city are always shut.  It was amusing to see the sudden breaking up of the party, most of the guests residing out of the city.  The calling for carriages, shawls, hats, etc., produced for a few minutes great confusion, every one being desirous of getting off at the earliest moment possible, for fear of being too late.  This regulation, by which the gates are closed at so early an hour, does not appear necessary, and only serves to interrupt the communication between the foreign and Spanish society as the former is obliged, as before observed, to live outside of the city proper.  This want of free intercourse is to be regretted, as it prevents that kind of friendship by which many of their jealousies and prejudices might be removed.

The society at this tertulia was easy, and so far as the enjoyment of dancing went, pleasant; but there was no conversation.  The refreshments consisted of a few dulces, lemonade, and strong drinks in an anteroom.  The house appeared very spacious and well adapted for entertainments, but only one of the rooms was well lighted.  From the novelty of the scene, and the attentions of the gentleman of the house, we passed a pleasant evening.

The natives and mestizos attracted much of my attention at Manila.  Their dress is peculiar:  over a pair of striped trousers of various colors, the men usually wear a fine grass-cloth shirt, a large straw hat, and around the head or neck a many colored silk handkerchief.  They often wear slippers as well as shoes.  The Chinese dress, as they have done for centuries, in loose white shirts and trousers.  One peculiarity of the common men is their passion for cock-fighting; and they carry these fowls wherever they go, after a peculiar fashion under their arm.

[Cock-figghting.] Cock-fighting is licensed by the government, and great care is taken in the breeding of game fowls, which are very large and heavy birds.  They are armed with a curved double-edged gaff.  The exhibitions are usually crowded with half-breeds or mestizos, who are generally more addicted to gambling than either the higher or lower classes of Spaniards.  It would not be an unapt designation to call the middling