These Indians, like the other tribes, are not poor, but all have more or less money.

Many are rich,

having more than $20,000 in good hard cash, yet the squalor in which they live would indicate the direst poverty.

The stroll to Indian river, from which the town gets its water supply, is bewitching.  The walk is made about six feet through an evergreen forest, the trees arching overhead, for a distance of two miles, and is close to the bay, and following the curve in a most picturesque circle.  The water is carried in buckets loaded on carts and wheeled by hand, for horses are almost unknown in Alaska.  There are probably not more than half a dozen horses and mules in all Alaska—­not so much because of the expense of transportation and board, as lack of roads and the long, dark days and months of winter, when people do not go out but very little.  All the packing is done in all sections of Alaska by natives carrying the packs and supplies on their backs.

Sitka’s most interesting object is the old Greek church, located in the middle of the town, and also in the middle of the street.  Its form is that of a Greek cross, with a copper-covered dome, surmounted by a chime-bell tower.  The inside glitters with gold and rare paintings, gold embroidered altar cloths and robes; quaint candelabra of solid silver are suspended in many nooks, and an air of sacred quiet pervades the whole building.  There were no seats, for the Russians remain standing during the worship.  Service is held every Sabbath by a Russian priest in his native language, and the church is still supported by the Russian Government.  Indeed, Russia does more for the advancement of religion than does our own Government for Alaska.

The walk through the Indian ranch was but a repetition of the other towns, only that they were wealthier and uglier, if possible, than the other tribes.  The Hydahs are very powerfully built, tall, large boned, and stout.

Two days were spent in visiting and trafficking with these people.  Then the anchor came up, and soon a silver trail like a huge sea serpent moved among the green isles, and followed us once more—­now on the homeward sail.

But one new place of importance was made on the home trip, and that was at

Killisnoo.

When the steamer arrived, the evening after leaving Sitka, the city policeman met us at the wharf and invited us to visit his hut.  Of course, he was a native, who expected to sell some curios.  Over his door was the following: 

    “By the Governor’s commission,
    And the company’s permission,
    I am made the grand tyhee
    Of this entire illahee.

    “Prominent in song and story,
    I’ve attained the top of glory. 
    As Saginaw I am known to fame,
    Jake is but my common name.”

The time when he attained his fame and glory must have been when he and his wife were both drunk one night, and he put the handcuffs on his wife and could not get them off, and she had to go to Sitka to be released.  He appears in at least a dozen different suits while the steamer is in port, and stands ready to be photographed every time.