Juneau is the only town of any importance on the mainland.  It has arisen to that dignity through the quality of its mines, and it is now the mining centre of Alaska.  Here we found Edward I. Parsons, of San Francisco, erecting an endless-rope tramway for conducting ores to a ten-stamp mill now under construction.  Mr. Parsons has had large experience in this line, and his tales of “Tramway Life” in Mexico are intensely thrilling and full of interest.  It is to be hoped that the good people of Juneau will see to it that he does not have to eat the native dishes, as he did in the land of the greasers.  The festive dog is all right in his place, but rather revolting to an epicure.

The famous Treadwell gold mine lies across the bay, on Douglas Island.  It is noted, not so much for its richness per ton, but for its vast extent.  The 120-stamp mill makes such a deafening noise that there is no fear that the curious minded will cause employes to waste any time answering questions, for nothing can be heard but the rise and fall of the great crushers and the crunching of the ores.  The ore is so plentiful that an addition of 120 stamps is being added to the present capacity.  The hole blasted by the miners looks like the crater of a huge volcano without the circling top, and sloping down to an apex from which is the tunnel to the mill.  The Treadwell yields about $200,000 per month, and will double that when the mill is completed.

There are many pleasant homes in Juneau, and some of its society people are charming indeed.  The business houses carry some large stocks of goods, and outfitting for the interior mines in the Yukon country is all done at this place.  There are two weekly papers, one the Mining Record, an eight-page, bright, newsy paper which deserves a liberal support.

One of the most novel and grotesque features of the entire trip was a dance given by the Indians at

A “Potlatch,”

a term applied to any assemblage of good cheer, although in its primary sense it means a gift.  A potlatch is given at the outset, or during the progress of some important event, such as the building of a new house, confirming of a sub-chief, or celebrating any good fortune, either of peace or war.  In this instance, a sub-chief was building a new house, and the frame work was inclosed in rough boards with no floor laid.  There is never but one entrance to an Indian hut.  This is in front, and elevated several feet from the ground, so that you must go down from the door-sill inside as well as out.  No windows were yet in the building, and it was really in a crude state.  These grand festivities last five days, and this was the second day of merry-making.