though the work is irregular; but the general hands
engaged in making 1s. coats, generally women, get a
maximum of 1s. 6d., and a minimum which is indefinitely
below 1s. for a twelve hours’ day. This
low-class work is also hopeless. The raw hand,
or “greener” as he is called, will often
work through his apprenticeship for nominal wages;
but he has the prospect of becoming a machinist, and
earning from 6s. to 10s. a day, or of becoming in his
turn a sweater. The general hand has no such
hope. The lowest kind of coat-making, however,
is refused by the Jew contractor, and falls to Gentile
women. These women also undertake most of the
low-class vest and trousers making, generally take
their work direct from a wholesale house, and execute
it at home, or in small workshops. The price for
this work is miserably low, partly by reason of the
competition of provincial factories, partly for reasons
to be discussed in a later chapter. Women will
work for twelve or fifteen hours a day throughout the
week as “trousers finishers,” for a net-earning
of as little as 4s. or 5s. Such is the condition
of inferior unskilled labour in the tailoring trade.
It should however be understood that in “tailoring,”
as in other “sweating” trades, the lowest
figures quoted must be received with caution.
The wages of a “greener,” a beginner or
apprentice, should not be taken as evidence of a low
wage in the trade, for though it is a lamentable thing
that the learner should have to live upon the value
of his prentice work, it is evident that under no
commercial condition could he support himself in comfort
during this period. It is the normal starvation
wage of the low-class experienced hand which is the
true measure of “sweating” in these trades.
Two facts serve to give prominence to the growth of
“sweating” in the tailoring trades.
During the last few years there has been a fall of
some 30 per cent, in the prices paid for the same
class of work. During the same period the irregularity
of work has increased. Even in fairly large shops
the work for ordinary labour only averages some three
days in the week, while we must reckon two and a half
days for unskilled workers in smaller workshops, or
working at home.
Among provincial towns Liverpool, Manchester, and Leeds show a rapid growth of sweating in the clothing trade. In each case the evil is imputed to “an influx of foreigners, chiefly Jews.” In each town the same conditions appear—irregular work and wages, unsanitary conditions, over-crowding, evasion of inspection. The growth in Leeds is remarkable. “There are now ninety-seven Jewish workshops in the city, whereas five years ago there were scarcely a dozen. The number of Jews engaged in the tailoring trade is about three thousand. The whole Jewish population of Leeds is about five thousand."[22]