Doubtless, old cooks and scullions wondered what the
world would come to next. Our French neighbors
were in the same predicament. But they far surpassed
us in veneration for the meal. They actually dated
from it. Dinner constituted the great era of
the day. L’apres diner is almost the
sole date which you find in Cardinal De Retz’s
memoirs of the Fronde. Dinner was their
Hegira—dinner was their line
in traversing the ocean of day: they crossed
the equator when they dined. Our English revolution
came next; it made some little difference, we have
heard people say, in Church and State; but its great
effects were perceived in dinner. People now
dined at two. So dined Addison for his last thirty
years; so dined Pope, who was coeval with the revolution
through his entire life. Precisely as the rebellion
of 1745 arose, did people (but observe, very great
people) advance to four, P.M. Philosophers, who
watch the “semina rerum,” and the first
symptoms of change, had perceived this alteration singing
in the upper air like a coming storm some little time
before. About the year 1740, Pope complains to
a friend of Lady Suffolk’s dining so late as
four. Young people may bear those things, he
observes; but as to himself, now turned of fifty,
if such doings went on, if Lady Suffolk would adopt
such strange hours, he must really absent himself
from Marble Hill. Lady Suffolk had a right to
please herself: he himself loved her. But
if she would persist, all which remained for a decayed
poet was respectfully to “cut his stick, and
retire.” Whether Pope ever put up with four
o’clock dinners again, we have vainly sought
to fathom. Some things advance continuously, like
a flood or a fire, which always make an end of A,
eat and digest it, before they go on to B. Other things
advance per saltum—they do not silently
cancer their way onwards, but lie as still as a snake
after they have made some notable conquest, then when
unobserved they make themselves up “for mischief,”
and take a flying bound onwards. Thus advanced
dinner, and by these fits got into the territory of
evening. And ever as it made a motion onwards,
it found the nation more civilized, (else the change
would not have been effected,) and raised them to
a still higher civilization. The next relay on
that line of road, the next repeating frigate, is Cowper
in his poem on Conversation. He speaks
of four o’clock as still the elegant hour for
dinner—the hour for the lautiores
and the lepidi homines. Now this was written
about 1780, or a little earlier; perhaps, therefore,
just one generation after Pope’s Lady Suffolk.
But then Cowper was living amongst the rural gentry,
not in high life; yet, again, Cowper was nearly connected
by blood with the eminent Whig house of Cowper, and
acknowledged as a kinsman. About twenty-five
years after this, we may take Oxford as a good exponent
of the national advance. As a magnificent body
of “foundations,” endowed by kings, and