of the higher mountains; the huge central group of
trees—Saman, {81c} Sandbox, {81d} and
Fig, with the bright ostrich plumes of a climbing palm
towering through the mimosa-like foliage of the Saman;
and Erythrinas {81e} (Bois immortelles, as they call
them here), their all but leafless boughs now blazing
against the blue sky with vermilion flowers, trees
of red coral sixty feet in height. Ah that we
could show you the avenue on the right, composed
of palms from every quarter of the Tropics—palms
with smooth stems, or with prickly ones, with fan
leaves, feather leaves, leaves (as in the wine-palm
{82a}) like Venus’s hair fern; some, again,
like the Cocorite, {82b} almost stemless, rising
in a huge ostrich plume which tosses in the land
breeze, till the long stiff leaflets seem to whirl
like the spokes of a green glass wheel. Ah
that we could wander with you through the Botanic
Garden beyond, amid fruits and flowers brought together
from all the lands of the perpetual summer; or even
give you, through the great arches of the bamboo
clumps, as they creak and rattle sadly in the wind,
and the Bauhinias, like tall and ancient whitethorns,
which shade the road, one glance of the flat green
Savannah, with its herds of kine, beyond which lies,
buried in flowering trees, and backed by mountain
woods, the city of Port of Spain. One glance,
too, under the boughs of the great Cotton-tree at
the gate, at the still sleeping sea, with one tall
coolie ship at anchor, seen above green cane-fields
and coolie gardens, gay with yellow Croton and purple
Dracaena, and crimson Poinsettia, and the grand leaves
of the grandest of all plants, the Banana, food of
paradise. Or, again, far away to the extreme
right, between the flat tops of the great Saman-avenue
at the barracks and the wooded mountain-spurs which
rush down into the sea, the islands of the Bocas
floating in the shining water, and beyond them, a cloud
among the clouds, the peak of a mighty mountain,
with one white tuft of mist upon its top. Ah
that we could show you but that, and tell you that
you were looking at the ‘Spanish Main’;
at South America itself, at the last point of the
Venezuelan Cordillera, and the hills where jaguars
lie. If you could but see what we see daily;
if you could see with us the strange combination
of rich and luscious beauty, with vastness and repose,
you would understand, and excuse, the tendency to
somewhat grandiose language which tempts perpetually
those who try to describe the Tropics, and know well
that they can only fail.
In presence of such forms and such colouring as this, one becomes painfully sensible of the poverty of words, and the futility, therefore, of all word-painting; of the inability, too, of the senses to discern and define objects of such vast variety; of our aesthetic barbarism, in fact, which has no choice of epithets save between such as ‘great,’ and ‘vast,’ and ‘gigantic’; between such as ‘beautiful,’