and growing. The other side was low scrub—prickly
shrubs like acacias and mimosas, covered with a creeping
vine with brilliant yellow hair (we had seen it already
from the ship, gilding large patches of the slopes),
most like European dodder. Among it rose the
tall Calotropis procera, with its fleshy gray stems
and leaves, and its azure of lovely lilac flowers,
with curious columns of stamens in each—an
Asclepiad introduced from the Old World, where it
ranges from tropical Africa to Afghanistan; and so
on, and so on, up to a little farmyard, very like
a Highland one in most things, want of neatness included,
save that huge spotted Trochi were scattered before
the door, instead of buckies or periwinkles; and
in the midst of the yard grew, side by side, the common
accompaniment of a West India kitchen door, the magic
trees, whose leaves rubbed on the toughest meat make
it tender on the spot, and whose fruit makes the
best of sauce or pickle to be eaten therewith--namely,
a male and female Papaw (Carica Papaya), their stems
some fifteen feet high, with a flat crown of mallow-like
leaves, just beneath which, in the male, grew clusters
of fragrant flowerets, in the female, clusters of
unripe fruit. On through the farmyard, picking
fresh flowers at every step, and down to a shady cove
(for the sun, even at eight o’clock in December,
was becoming uncomfortably fierce), and again into
the shore-grape wood. We had already discovered,
to our pain, that almost everything in the bush had
prickles, of all imaginable shapes and sizes; and now,
touching a low tree, one of our party was seized
as by a briar, through clothes and into skin, and,
in escaping, found on the tree (Guilandina, Bonducella)
rounded prickly pods, which, being opened, proved
to contain the gray horse-nicker-beads of our childhood.
Up and down the white sand we wandered, collecting
shells, as did the sailors, gladly enough, and then
rowed back, over a bottom of white sand, bedded here
and there with the short manati-grass (Thalassia
Testudinum), one of the few flowering plants which,
like our Zostera, or grass-wrack, grows at the bottom
of the sea. But, wherever the bottom was stony,
we could see huge prickly sea-urchins, huger brainstone
corals, round and gray, and branching corals likewise,
such as, when cleaned, may be seen in any curiosity
shop. These, and a flock of brown and gray
pelicans sailing over our head, were fresh tokens
to us of where we were.
As we were displaying our nosegay on deck, on our
return, to some who had stayed stifling on board,
and who were inclined (as West Indians are) at once
to envy and to pooh-pooh the superfluous energy of
newcome Europeans, R----- drew out a large and lovely
flower, pale yellow, with a tiny green apple or two,
and leaves like those of an Oleander. The brown
lady, who was again at her post on deck, walked up
to her in silence, uninvited, and with a commanding
air waved the thing away. ’Dat manchineel.
Dat poison. Throw dat overboard.’
R-----, who knew it was not manchineel, whispered
to a bystander, ‘Ce n’est pas vrai.’
But the brown lady was a linguist. ‘Ah!
mais c’est vrai,’ cried she, with flashing
teeth; and retired, muttering her contempt of English
ignorance and impertinence.