about the houses, yards and gardens is kept in the most perfect order.  Occasionally, a beautiful vista opens to a fine residence in the distance.  As we rode along in the cars, we would occasionally see an afternoon or evening party seated around a richly laden table glittering with glassware, and enjoy their dinners and suppers under some shade trees in the midst of their gardens.  This custom is common in Europe, and presents most beautiful and homely sights.

Soon after I had entered the cars, I noticed that the tone of the conversation among the passengers was different from what I had been accustomed to hear in France and Belgium thus far.  I now heard the chatter of the Dutch, but understood no more than if it had been so much French.  Dutch and German are two entirely different languages.  Dutch print in the newspapers does, however, not look so perfectly strange, as the conversation sounds to the ear.

After arriving at Antwerp I was soon found by a porter who conducted me to a German Hotel.  How social and hospitable these Germans are—­and, I must add, Europeans in general. Die “Deutsche Wirthschaft" (German Hotel) occupied quite a small building, which presented a very ordinary appearance on the outside, but I shall never forget that carpeted bar-room, the costly furniture of the parlor, and the accommodating landlady which we found there.  Taste and comfort are always consulted, even where the greatest simplicity prevails.

Antwerp

is one of the most Catholic cities (some say the most Catholic city) in the world.  Its streets are filled with images of the Virgin and Child, the Savior and the Cross.  These stand at the corners of the crossings, or preside over the street lamps.  On one of its church towers, over a gas light, is represented a candle stick with the rays emanating from its light.  On each side, is a little cherub—­one has a cross and the other an anchor.  Over them, stand the mystical letters “IHS,” the cross being combined with the H after the fashion of a monogram.  Beneath is the following inscription: 

         GELOOFD
    ZY JESUS CHRISTUS
  IN HET ALLERHEYLIGSTE
        SACRAMENT.

In another part of the city I found a representation of the crucifixion, the cross upon which Christ is nailed being about 20 feet high.  Effigies of two women in oriental costume stand on either side of it.

In Antwerp, as in Brussels, the spirit of progress:  has seized the leading circles, and the hand of improvement has commenced tearing down her ancient houses and building new streets upon the modern plan and style of architecture.  One of the most handsome avenues in the world, being from 290 to 350 feet in width, and about two miles long, runs through the very heart of this city.  It has several moderate angles, which render it convenient to assign different names to different sections of it.  Avenue du Commerce