Looking at the town from this elevation, one gets no idea of its unique features, as the numerous slate-roofs give it the appearance of a modern town.  The descent was made with difficulty, land even attended with some danger, for the long wooden stairs or ladders are becoming shaky and a break of one of its steps might precepitate one from such a height that instant death was the most desirable alternative.  But who would not become bold, or even sometimes more that, amid such surroundings!  When one says we can’t get there, another is sure to declare that we must get there!  “What! would you come so far to see antiquity, and then count your steps how near you would approach her?” Eight bells constitute the peal in this venerable old tower.  Near by, stand the ivy-clad and moss-covered ruins of portions of the sacred edifices that date back, even to the earlier ages of the Christian era, and from among the dust and rubbish are picked up the broken images of hideous-looking idols that were the ornaments (?) of the temples once standing there.  We found a large collection of those ghastly-looking idols piled away in the crypt of the church.  Whether the emblems of Druid, or Christian worship, these “images cut out of stone” evidently represent an age, in which the heart was subdued by superstitious fear rather than by “love.”

The Walls merit especial attention.  They still surround the city completely, and form, in a certain sense, the proudest and most admirable promenade that the world affords anywhere.  From it are obtained the best views of the Cathedral and of the country around.  The ascent to it is made by a flight of steps on the north side of the East-gate.  A ditch or canal about twenty-five feet wide, runs all around the wall and used to render the battering of the wall a matter of extreme difficulty before the invention of powder and the introduction of fire-arms.  The pavement, on top of the wall, is four and a half to six feet wide, and skirted on both sides by thinner walls; that on the outside being about four or five feet high.  From behind this wall the soldiers would hurl spears, javelins, &c., at the attacking enemy, and keep them in check.  How things have changed since that time!  Now this walk forms the peaceful and delightful promenade of the private citizens.  Here meet the young and the gay, fashion displays its gaudiest colors, and lovers take their “moonlight strolls.”

Such is the use now made of the Walls of Chester!  America has no walled cities; Europe has but few without walls.  In the early history of Europe, every town even had its walls.  In many places where the walls have almost disappeared, there are still remaining the gates of the city.  At those points the walls were made doubly strong, and high and impregnable towers built over them, in which were stationed strong guards “to defend the gates.”  Then no stranger could enter without some kind of “pass” from recognized authorities.  Did not the system of “pass-ports” which has been handed down to our day, but which seems to be falling into disuse even in Europe, have its origin in this way?  At 5:40 I left Chester for Birmingham.  On our way we passed Crewe, one of the great railroad centers of England.  At this station five hundred trains pass each other every twenty-four hours.