with the sentiment.” At Durham they dined
with a dignitary of the Church, and Yule was roasted
by being placed with his back to an enormous fire.
“Coals are cheap at Durham,” he notes feelingly,
adding, “The party we found as heavy as any
Edinburgh one. Smith, indeed, evidently has had
little experience of really stupid Edinburgh parties,
for he had never met with anything approaching to this
before.” (Happy Smith!) But thanks to the kindness
and hospitality of the astronomer, Mr. Chevalier,
and his gifted daughter, they had a delightful visit
to beautiful Durham, and came away full of admiration
for the (then newly established) University, and its
grand locale. They went on to stay with
an uncle by marriage of Yule’s, in Yorkshire.
At dinner he was asked by his host to explain Foucault’s
pendulum experiment. “I endeavoured to
explain it somewhat, I hope, to the satisfaction of
his doubts, but not at all to that of Mr. G. M., who
most resolutely declined to take in any elucidation,
coming at last to the conclusion that he entirely differed
with me as to what North meant, and that it was useless
to argue until we could agree about that!” They
went next to Leeds, to visit Kirkstall Abbey, “a
mediaeval fossil, curiously embedded among the squalid
brickwork and chimney stalks of a manufacturing suburb.
Having established ourselves at the hotel, we went
to deliver a letter to Mr. Hope, the official assignee,
a very handsome, aristocratic-looking gentleman, who
seemed as much out of place at Leeds as the Abbey.”
At Leeds they visited the flax mills of Messrs. Marshall,
“a firm noted for the conscientious care they
take of their workpeople.... We mounted on the
roof of the building, which is covered with grass,
and formerly was actually grazed by a few sheep, until
the repeated inconvenience of their tumbling through
the glass domes put a stop to this.” They
next visited some tile and brickworks on land belonging
to a friend. “The owner of the tile works,
a well-to-do burgher, and the apparent model of a
West Riding Radical, received us in rather a dubious
way: ’There are a many people has come and
brought introductions, and looked at all my works,
and then gone and set up for themselves close by.
Now des you mean to say that you be really come all
the way from Beng_u_l?’ ’Yes, indeed we
have, and we are going all the way back again, though
we didn’t exactly come from there to look at
your brickworks.’ ‘Then you’re
not in the brick-making line, are you?’ ’Why
we’ve had a good deal to do with making bricks,
and may have again; but we’ll engage that if
we set up for ourselves, it shall be ten thousand miles
from you.’ This seemed in some degree to
set his mind at rest....”