Well whisk the eggs with a coiled wire beater.  They must be quite stiff when done.  Add the sugar, a teaspoon at a time, while whisking.  Or separate the yolks and whites, beating the yolks and sugar together and whisking the whites on a plate with a knife before adding to the yolks.  Lastly, dredge in the flour.  Stir lightly, but do not beat, or the eggs will go down.  Pour mixture into tin, and bake about one hour in a moderate oven.

13.  SULTANA SCONES.

1 oz. cane sugar, 3 ozs. nutter, 1 lb. flour, 1/4 lb. sultanas, a short 1/2 pint water.

Mix the flour and sugar; rub in the nutter; add sultanas; make it into a dough with the water; roll out about 1/2 in. thick; form into scones; bake in a moderate oven.

14.  SUSSEX CAKE.

1 lb. flour, 6 ozs. nutter, 1/4 lb. sultanas, 1/4 lb. castor sugar, grated lemon rind.

This cake is included especially for the non-users of milk and eggs.  Of course it does not turn out quite like the orthodox cake; some people might even call it “puddeny,” but it is not by any means unlike the substantial household cake if the directions are minutely followed and the baking well done.  But if any attempt is made to make it rich, disaster follows, and it becomes as heavy as the proverbial lead.  Made as follows, however, I am told it is quite common in some country places:—­Beat the nutter and sugar to a cream.  Upon the amount of air incorporated during this beating depends the lightness of the cake.  Beat the flour into the creamed nutter.  Now add enough water to make cake of a consistency to not quite drop off the spoon.  Put the mixture into a greased hot qr. qtn. tin.  Put in a very hot oven until nicely brown.  This will take from 20 minutes to half an hour.  Cover top with greased paper, and allow oven to get slightly cooler.  The baking will take from 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

XI.—­JAM, MARMALADE, &c.

Jam simply consists of fresh fruit boiled with a half to two-thirds its weight of white cane sugar until the mixture jellies.

Nearly every housekeeper has her own recipe for jam.  One that I know of uses a whole pound of sugar to a pound of fruit and boils it for nearly two hours.  The result is a very stiff, sweet jam, much more like shop jam than home-made jam.  Its only recommendation is that it will keep for an unlimited time.  Some recipes include water.  But unless distilled water can be procured, it is better not to dilute the fruit.  The only advantage gained is an increase of bulk.  The jam may be made just as liquid by using rather less sugar in proportion to the fruit.  A delicious jam is made by allowing 1/2 lb. sugar to every pound of fruit and cooking for half an hour from the time it first begins to boil.  But unless this is poured immediately into clean, hot, dry jars, and tied down very tightly with parchment covers, it will not keep.  Nevertheless, too much sugar spoils the flavour of the fruit, and too long boiling spoils the quality of the sugar.  A copper or thick enamelled iron pan is needed.