Their embroidered vests, their costly silks and satins,
their emerald and diamond buckles, their point-lace
ruffles, their rare furs, their jewelled rapiers,
and their perfumed handkerchiefs were peculiar to
themselves,—for in those days wealthy shopkeepers,
and even the daughters of prosperous notaries, could
ill afford such luxuries, and were scarcely allowed
to shine in them if they would. A velvet coat
then cost more than one thousand francs; while the
ruffs and frills, and diamond studs and knee-buckles,
and other appendages to the dress of a gentleman,
swelled the amount to scarcely less than forty thousand
francs, or sixteen hundred louis-d’or. If
a distinguished advocate was admitted to the presence
of royalty, he must appear in simple black. Gorgeous
dresses were reserved only for the noblesse,
some one hundred and fifty thousand privileged persons;
all the rest were roturiers, marked by some
emblem of meanness or inferiority, whatever might
be their intellectual and moral worth. Never
were the noblesse more enervated; and yet they
always appeared in a mock-heroic costume, with swords
dangling at their sides, or hats cocked after a military
fashion on their heads. As the strength of Samson
of old was in his locks, so the degenerate nobles
of this period guarded with especial care these masculine
ornaments of the person; and so great was the contagion
for wigs and hair-powder, that twelve hundred shops
existed in Paris to furnish this aristocratic luxury.
The muses of Rome in the days of her decline condescended
to sing on the arts of cookery and the sublime occupations
of hunting and fishing; so in the heroic times of
Louis XV. the genius of France soared to comprehend
the mysteries of the toilet. One eminent savant,
in this department of philosophical wisdom, absolutely
published a bulky volume on the principles
of hair-dressing, and followed it—so highly
was it prized—by a no less ponderous supplement.
This was the time when the cuisine of nobles
was as famous as their toilets, and when recipes for
different dishes were only equalled in variety by the
epigrams of ribald poets. It was a period not
merely of degrading follies, but of shameless exposure
of them,—when men boasted of their gallantries,
and women joked at their own infirmities; and when
hypocrisy, if it was ever added to their other vices,
only served to make them more ridiculous and unnatural.
The rouge with which they painted their faces, and
the powder which they sprinkled upon their hair were
not used to give them the semblance of youthful beauty,
but rather to impart the purple hues of perpetual
drunkenness, such as Rubens gave to his Bacchanalian
deities, united with the blanched whiteness of premature
old age. Licentiousness without shame, drunkenness
without rebuke, gambling without honor, and frivolity
without wit characterized, alas, a great proportion
of that “upper class” who disdained the
occupations and sneered at the virtues of industrial
life.