only time to tell you that our visit to the Pyramids
has been a success. It was one of the greatest
which I ever achieved in that line. It came
about in this way. When Baron Gros and I, accompanied
by Betts Bey, the chief director of the railway,
were journeying in our pachalic state-carriage
from Alexandria to Cairo, a question arose as
to how we were to spend the few hours which we should
have to remain at the latter place. I expressed
a desire to see the Pyramids, as I had witnessed
all the other lions of Cairo. But Betts Bey
observed, that to go there during the day, at this
season of the year, was a service of considerable
danger, the risk of sunstroke being more than
usually great. We were, in fact, traversing Egypt
during the period (of about six weeks’ duration)
when the wind from the south blows, and the only
air one receives is like the blast of a furnace
heavily charged with sand. He added, however,
that it was not impossible to go to the Pyramids
at night, remain there till dawn, see the sunrise
from the summit, and return before the great heats
of the day. When I found myself at Cairo,
I proposed to my entourage that we should
undertake this expedition. My proposal was eagerly
accepted, especially by ‘Our own Correspondent,’
Mr. Bowlby, who is a remarkably agreeable person,
and has become very much one of our party. It
was arranged that we should dine at the table
d’hote at 7 P.M., start at 9, in carriages
to the crossing of the Nile (about four miles), and
on donkeys from Gieja (about six miles).
The Pasha’s state-coach came to the door
at the appointed hour; we started, our own party, Mr.
Bowlby, Captain F., and M. de B., Gros’
secretary. Gros himself, having twice seen
the Pyramids, declined going with us. The moon
was very nearly full, and but for the honour of
the thing we might have dispensed with the torch-bearers,
who ran before the carriage and preceded the donkeys,
after we adopted that humbler mode of locomotion.
Our row across the river to the chant of the boatmen
invoking the aid of a sainted dervish, and our
ride through the fertile borders of the Nile, covered
with crops and palm-trees, were very lovely, and, after
about an hour and a half from Cairo, we emerged
upon the Desert. The Pyramids seemed then
almost within reach of our outstretched arms, but
lo! they were in fact some four miles distant.
We kept moving on at a sort of ambling walk; and
the first sign of our near approach was the appearance
of a crowd of Arabs who poured out of a village to
offer us their aid in various ways. We had
been told before we started, that a party who
had visited the Pyramids the night before had been
a good deal victimised by these Arabs, who, alas!
in these degenerate days, have no other mode of
indulging their predatory propensities than by exacting
the greatest possible amount of ‘backshish’
from travellers who visit the Pyramids. We
pushed on over the heaps of sand and debris,
or probably covered-up tombs, which surround the base