Letters and Journals of James, Eighth Earl of Elgin eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 654 pages of information about Letters and Journals of James, Eighth Earl of Elgin.

Letters and Journals of James, Eighth Earl of Elgin eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 654 pages of information about Letters and Journals of James, Eighth Earl of Elgin.
only time to tell you that our visit to the Pyramids has been a success.  It was one of the greatest which I ever achieved in that line.  It came about in this way.  When Baron Gros and I, accompanied by Betts Bey, the chief director of the railway, were journeying in our pachalic state-carriage from Alexandria to Cairo, a question arose as to how we were to spend the few hours which we should have to remain at the latter place.  I expressed a desire to see the Pyramids, as I had witnessed all the other lions of Cairo.  But Betts Bey observed, that to go there during the day, at this season of the year, was a service of considerable danger, the risk of sunstroke being more than usually great.  We were, in fact, traversing Egypt during the period (of about six weeks’ duration) when the wind from the south blows, and the only air one receives is like the blast of a furnace heavily charged with sand.  He added, however, that it was not impossible to go to the Pyramids at night, remain there till dawn, see the sunrise from the summit, and return before the great heats of the day.  When I found myself at Cairo, I proposed to my entourage that we should undertake this expedition.  My proposal was eagerly accepted, especially by ‘Our own Correspondent,’ Mr. Bowlby, who is a remarkably agreeable person, and has become very much one of our party.  It was arranged that we should dine at the table d’hote at 7 P.M., start at 9, in carriages to the crossing of the Nile (about four miles), and on donkeys from Gieja (about six miles).  The Pasha’s state-coach came to the door at the appointed hour; we started, our own party, Mr. Bowlby, Captain F., and M. de B., Gros’ secretary.  Gros himself, having twice seen the Pyramids, declined going with us.  The moon was very nearly full, and but for the honour of the thing we might have dispensed with the torch-bearers, who ran before the carriage and preceded the donkeys, after we adopted that humbler mode of locomotion.  Our row across the river to the chant of the boatmen invoking the aid of a sainted dervish, and our ride through the fertile borders of the Nile, covered with crops and palm-trees, were very lovely, and, after about an hour and a half from Cairo, we emerged upon the Desert.  The Pyramids seemed then almost within reach of our outstretched arms, but lo! they were in fact some four miles distant.  We kept moving on at a sort of ambling walk; and the first sign of our near approach was the appearance of a crowd of Arabs who poured out of a village to offer us their aid in various ways.  We had been told before we started, that a party who had visited the Pyramids the night before had been a good deal victimised by these Arabs, who, alas! in these degenerate days, have no other mode of indulging their predatory propensities than by exacting the greatest possible amount of ‘backshish’ from travellers who visit the Pyramids.  We pushed on over the heaps of sand and debris, or probably covered-up tombs, which surround the base
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Letters and Journals of James, Eighth Earl of Elgin from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.