was tired of Ceylon; and my longing to get home increases
as the prospect of my doing so becomes more real.
I was ill, too, at Ceylon. The heat was very
great; and I was, I fear, somewhat imprudent.
On the day after I despatched my last letter to you
from Colombo, I started for Kandy, a pretty little
countrytown seated in the centre of a circle of
hills. I reached it at 5 P.M., time enough to
walk about the very beautiful grounds of the ‘Pavilion,’
the Governor’s residence. Next day,
after seeing the shrine which contains the famous
tooth of Buddha, I set off for the mountains, and reached
a coffee estate of Baron Delmar’s at about
6 P.M. We found ourselves in a fine cool
climate, at about 3,000 feet above the sea. That
night, however, I felt a shiver as I went to bed.
I had a bad headache next morning, and when I
arrived at Newra Elyia, the famous sanatarium, 6,000
feet above the sea, I was obliged to go to bed, and
send for the doctor. I could not remain quiet,
however, as the packet from England might be at
Galle on the 3rd; so I had to hurry down on Friday
from the mountain to Kandy and Colombo, where
I arrived on Saturday evening more dead than alive.
Sir H. Ward’s doctor declared me to be labouring
under an attack of jungle fever.... I sent
for the ‘Furious,’ which conveyed
me from Colombo to Galle on Monday the 4th. Frederick
did not arrive till the 6th; so all ended well.
It was an unspeakable comfort to me to meet Frederick
at last We had a day to talk over our affairs, as
he did not proceed till the afternoon of the 7th....
I am pleased with Ceylon, notwithstanding my mishaps.
For a tropical climate it is healthy and bearable;
but we happened to be there at the very hottest season.
At Newra Elyia it is really cold, and, at the height
of the coffee estates, very tolerable to vegetate
in.
The rapid homeward journey along a beaten route offered
little of interest to write about, especially as he
was likely to be the bearer of his own letter.
On the 19th of May he reported to the Foreign Office
his arrival in London.
[1] The text of the Article respecting opium is as
follows:—’Opium will
henceforth, pay thirty taels
per picul import duty. The importer will
sell it only at the port.
It will be carried into the interior by
Chinese only, and only as
Chinese property; the Foreign trader will
not be allowed to accompany
it. The provisions of Article IX. of the
Treaty of Tientsin, by which
British subjects are authorised to
proceed into the interior
with passports to trade, will not extend to
it, nor will those of Article
XXVIII. of the same Treaty, by which the
transit-dues are regulated;
the transit-dues on it will be arranged as
the Chinese Government see
fit; nor, in future revisions of the
Tariff, is the rule of revision
to be applied to opium as to other
goods.’