Straubenzee in an expedition up the West River; but
finding that his presence would be of no use, and
might be an embarrassment, he resolved instead to spend
the time in visiting the port of Hainan, the southernmost
port opened by the new Treaty. Unfortunately,
when he arrived off Hainan, a wind blowing on shore,
and very imperfect charts, prevented his entering the
port; but on his way he had an opportunity of revisiting
one of the few places on the coast possessing any
historical interest, namely Macao, the residence of
Camoens; and also of touching at St. John, the scene
of the labours and death of Francis Xavier.
[Sidenote: Macao.]
February 11th.—We reached Macao yesterday morning. I visited the garden of Camoens, and wandered among the narrow up-and-down streets, which with the churches and convents, and air of quiet vetuste, remind one of a town on the continent of Europe.
[Sidenote: St. John.]
February 20th.—Sunday.—We have just anchored in a quiet harbour, on the island of St. John, or Sancian, as Huc calls it; the first place in China where the Portuguese settled. Here, too, St. Francis Xavier died. I should land and look at his tomb if I thought it was in this part of the island, but it is late (5 P.M.), and a long way to pull.
On returning to Hong-Kong he found that his letter to the Chinese Government had had the effect which he desired and anticipated.
[Sidenote: Mission completed.]
Hong-Kong.—February 23rd.—I have good news from the North. As I was walking on the deck this morning at 8 A.M., Mr. Lay suddenly made his appearance. He had come by the mail-packet from Shanghae, with a letter from the Imperial Commissioners, announcing that the seal of Imperial Commission had been taken from Hwang, the Governor-General of this province, and given to Ho, the Governor-General of the provinces in which Shanghae is situated. Lay further states that his friend the Tautai informed him that they are prepared to receive the new Ambassador peacefully at Pekin, when he goes to exchange ratifications. If so, I think that I shall be able to return with the conviction that the objects of my mission have been accomplished.
The details of his Treaty having been now definitively arranged, Canton pacified, and its neighbourhood overawed by the peaceful progress through it of a military expedition, there remained nothing to detain him in the East.[6]
[Sidenote: Homeward bound.] [Sidenote: Hong-Kong factory.]
Canton River.—March 3rd.—I am really and truly off on my way to England, though I can hardly believe that it is so. The last mail brought me not a word either from Frederick or about his plans; only, what was very satisfactory, the approval of the Government of my arrangement respecting the residence of the British Minister in China. I have, however, determined to start,