by the Governor-General and his suite, dressed in their best.  The ceremony was as usual; conversation and tea in the front room, followed by a more substantial repast in the second.  I have never, however, seen a reception in China so sumptuous, the authorities so well got up, and the feeding so well arranged.  The Governor-General is a good-looking man, less artificial in his manner than Chinese authorities usually are.  He is a Mantchoo.  It is rather hard to make conversation when one is seated at the top of a room surrounded by some hundred people, and when, moreover, one has nothing to say, and that nothing has to be said through an interpreter.  However, the ceremony went off very well.  After it, I got rid of my ribbon and star, and took a stroll incog. through Hankow, where we bought some tea.  Ouchang seems a large town with some good houses and streets, but sadly knocked about by the Rebels.  We are getting all our supplies, &c., on board, and hope to start to-morrow evening.

[Sidenote:  Return visit.]

     December 11th.—­Six P.M.—­This day the Governor-General paid me a
    return visit.  We received him with all honour; manned yards of all
    four ships, and gave him a salute of three guns from each.  It has been
    a beautiful day, and the scene was a striking one when he came off in
    a huge junk like a Roman trireme, towed by six boats, bedizened by any
    number of triangular flags of all colours.  A line of troops, horse and
    foot, lined the beach along which he passed from the gate of the city
    to the place of embarkation; quaint enough both in uniform and
    armament, but still with something of a pretension to both about them. 
    I have seen nothing in China with so much display and style about it
    as the turn-out of the Governor-General of the Two Hoo, both to-day
    and yesterday.  We showed him the ship, feasted him, photographed him,
    and entertained him one way or another for upwards of three hours. 
    After he had departed, I landed on the Ouchang side, and walked
    through the walled city.  Some objection was made to our entering, as
    we went through a side instead of the main gate, but we persevered and
    carried our point.  The city is a fine one, about the size of Canton,
    but much in ruins.  To-morrow at six, please God, we set forth on our
    return.  I may mention as an illustration of the state of Ouchang, that
    in walking over a hill in the very centre of the walled town, we put
    up two brace of pheasants!

[Sidenote:  Retro-sum.]