a large force of cavalry in the neighbourhood, and that they would check the exodus of the inhabitants.  Between Imperialists and Rebels, the people must have a nice time of it.  His best piece of news was that we are only about fifty miles from Hankow.  I trust that it may be so, for, despite my love of adventure, I shall be glad when we are able to turn back and proceed homewards.

[Sidenote:  Popular view of the religion of the Rebels.]

The reason which the pilot assigns for the destruction of the temples by the Rebels is the following:  ‘At present,’ says he, ’the rich have a great advantage over the poor.  They can afford to spend a great deal more in joss-sticks and other offerings, so that, of course, the gods show them a very undue allowance of favour.  The Rebels, who do not approve of these invidious distinctions, get rid of them by destroying the temples altogether.’  This is evidently a popular version of the religious character of the Rebel movement.  A Buddhist priest, whom I saw at Kew-kiang, said that the Rebels had destroyed some forty temples there.  ‘They do not worship in temples,’ he said, ’but they have a worship of their own.’  The room in which Mr. Wade saw the Rebel chief at Woo-how was said to be their place of worship.  It had no altar, nor anything to distinguish it as such.

December 4th.—­Six P.M.—­Anchored again for the night, not half a mile farther than yesterday.  An island in process of formation, covered at high water, separates the two anchorages.  We had to go back, &c., and ended the day’s work by getting through a very tight place in a most masterly manner; leadsmen sounding at the bow and stern, as well as at the two paddles, and the ‘Lee’ and ‘Cruiser’ stationed as pivots at the edges of the shoal.  We had to perform a sort of letter S round them, and we passed by the latter so near, that we might have shaken hands with the crew.  I should be amused with these triumphs, were it not for the reflection that we have to repeat them all in returning, with a favouring current, which will make our task more difficult.

[Sidenote:  Hankow.]

December 6th.—­Three P.M.—­At Hankow; four weeks, almost to a minute, since we left Shanghae.  We have brought this ship to a point about 600 miles from the sea,—­a feat, I should think, unprecedented for a vessel of this size.  We have reached the heart of the commerce of China.  At first sight, I am disappointed in the magnitude of the place.  I am anchored off the mouth of the river Han, which separates Hankow and Han-yang on the left bank of the Yangtze.  On its right bank is Ouchang Foo.  I do not see room for the eight millions of people, at which rumour puts the population of these three towns.  The scene is very animated.  We are surrounded by hundreds of boats, and the banks are a sea of heads.  My gentlemen are gone ashore.  I think I shall get through the streets more conveniently