had formerly visited; but as the country was flat, it was hardly so interesting.  The object of our visit was a temple, far the finest I have seen either in China or Japan.  We had some luncheon in a tea-house, and got back at about 7 P.M.  On the 25th, we went to another temple, through the most crowded part of the city (where we were stoned before).  We were followed by large multitudes, but nothing disagreeable took place.  At the temple we found a scene somewhat resembling Greenwich Fair.  Immense numbers of people amusing themselves in all sorts of ways.  Stalls covered with toys and other wares; kiosques for tea; show places, &c. &c.  Life seems an affair of enjoyment in Japan.  We made some purchases, and got home by about 5 P.M., in order to receive a party.  I had invited the Imperial Commissioners to dine with me, and requested that they would send a juggler to perform before dinner.  They tried to fight shy after having accepted, I suppose because they considered it infra dig. to attend at the performance of the juggler; but they came at last, and enjoyed the dinner part of the affair thoroughly.  The juggler was good, but one particular feat was beyond praise.  He twisted a bit of paper into the shape of a butterfly, and kept it hovering and fluttering, lighting here or there, on a fan which he held in his other hand, on a bunch of flowers, &c.,—­all by the action on the air, produced by a fan which he held in the right hand.  At one time he started two butterflies, and kept them both on the wing.  It was the most graceful trick I ever saw, and entirely an affair of skill, not trick.  The juggler was succeeded by the dinner, which I wound up by giving sundry toasts, with all the honours, to the great amusement of my Commissioners.  Thursday morning was occupied in paying bills, which was a most difficult matter, as the Government will not allow the people to take money in the shops, and the complication of accounts was very great.  The accuracy of the Japanese in these matters is, however, very great.

[Sidenote:  Signing the Treaty]

At 1 P.M. the Commissioners came to sign the Treaty.  We have agreed to make the Dutch copy the original, as it is the language both parties understand.  The Dutch copy, written by their man Moriama, was so beautifully written, that I have kept it to send to England.  After the signature, I lunched on a dinner sent me by the Emperor; not so bad, after all.  About 3 P.M.  I set off to go on board the ‘Emperor’ yacht, which I reached at about 5; immediately after which the Japanese fort saluted the British flag with twenty-one guns (ten-inch guns); as good a salute as I ever heard, an exact interval of ten seconds between each gun.  The Japanese flag was then hoisted on the ‘Emperor,’ and saluted by the ‘Retribution’ and ‘Furious’ with twenty-one guns each.  We ended the day with a collation on board the ‘Retribution,’ and trip in the ‘Emperor;’ and as I was pacing the deck of the ‘Furious,’