Off Yeddo.—­August 14th.—­We moved yesterday to within about one mile of the shore off the suburb of Yeddo.  The shore is flat, and the buildings of the town, interspersed with trees and enclosures, seem to stretch to a great distance along the crescent-shaped bay.  Immediately in front of the town and opposite to us are five large batteries.  Four Japanese men-of-war built on European models are anchored beside us.  Three princes came off to see me yesterday.  They were exceedingly civil, but very anxious to get me to go back to Kanagawa, a port about ten miles down the bay, from which they said they would convey me by land to Yeddo.  Of course I would not agree to this.  They were very much puzzled (and no wonder) by my two names.  I complimented the prince on the beautiful Fusiama, calling it a high mountain.  ‘Oh!’ he said at once, ’I have seen a scale of mountains, and I know that there are many much higher than Fusiama.’  There were persons in the suite taking down in shorthand every word that passed in conversation, and I thought I saw in one of their note-books a sketch of my face.  No doubt these were spies also, to watch and report on the proceedings of the officials, for that seems to be the great means of government in Japan.  Still there is no appearance of oppression or fear anywhere.  It seems to be a matter of course that every man should fill the place and perform the function which custom and law prescribe, and that he should be denounced if he fail to do so.  The Emperor is never allowed to leave the precincts of his palace, and everybody, high and low, is under a rigid rule of convenances, which does not seem to be felt to be burdensome.  I am afraid they are not much disposed to do things in a hurry, and that I must discover some means of hastening them, if I am to get my treaty before returning to Shanghae.

[Sidenote:  Hereditary princes.]

August 16th.—­Princes, five in number, arrived on board yesterday at about 3 P.M.  Among them was the Lord High Admiral, a very intelligent well-bred man.  It was agreed that I was to land to-day, and some discussion took place as to the house I was to inhabit.  They said that they could give me the choice of two, but that they recommended the one farthest from the palace as being in best repair.  I chose the one nearest the palace, because one is always obliged to be on one’s guard against slights, but it has ruined so much to-day that I have sent to say that I will not land till to-morrow, and to inquire where I can really be best lodged.  I have handed to the authorities a draft of my treaty.  The chief interpreter, by name Moriama (the ’wooded mountain’), a very acute and smooth-spoken gentleman, who told one of my party yesterday that the princes who have come off to me are Free Traders, and that this is the spirit of the Government, but that some of the hereditary princes are very much opposed to intercourse with foreigners, and