Same day.—­Noon.—­It is a magnificent prospect which we have from the paddle-box.  Immediately before us a bold junk, its single large sail set, and scudding before the breeze.  Beyond, a white cloud, slight at the base, and swelling into the shape of a balloon as it rises.  We have discovered that it rests on a mountain dimly visible in the distance, and which we recognise as the volcanic island of Oosima.  Towards the right the wide sea dotted with two or three rocky islets.  On the left of the volcano island a point of land rising into a bold and rocky coast, along which the eye is carried till it encounters a mighty bank of white clouds piled up one upon another, out of which rises clear and blue, with a white streak upon the side which seems to tell of perpetual snow, the cone-shaped top of Fusiama.  Passing on the eye from this magnificent object to the left still farther, the rocky coast is followed till it loses itself in the distance.  What is almost more charming than the scene is the fresh breeze which is carrying off the accumulated fever of weeks.

[Sidenote:  Simoda.]

August 12th.—­At sea again. (Grouse day.  I am following different game.) We dropped anchor in the harbour of Simoda on the 10th at about 3 P.M.  I went off immediately to see the American Consul-General, Mr. Harris, the only foreigner resident at Simoda.  I found him living in what had been a temple, but what in point of fact makes a very nice cottage, overlooking the bay.  As soon as we anchored we began to feel the heat, though not so great as at Shanghae.  I found that the Consul had contrived to make a pretty good treaty with Japan, evidently under the influence of the contrecoup of our proceedings in China.  He had had an interview with the Emperor, but it transpired that he had a letter of credence, which I have not, and that Putiatine, not having one, is not permitted to go to Yeddo.  I also learnt that there is no way of communicating with the Japanese officials except through the Dutch language.  Being without a Dutch interpreter, and without letters of credence, my case looked bad enough.  However, I made great friends with the American, and the result is that he has lent me his own interpreter, who is now beside me translating into Dutch a letter from me to the Foreign Minister of the Japanese Emperor.  You see how I was situated.  The problem I had to solve was:—­How to make a treaty without time (for I cannot stay here above a few days), interpreter, or credentials !!  When I say credentials, I do not mean full powers. These I have, but prestige is everything in the East, and I should not like to be prevented from seeing the Emperor, now that the American has been received.  We shall see how we can get out of all this.

The lack of credentials was practically supplied by the steam-yacht ‘Emperor,’ which he had to present to the Tycoon as a gift from her Majesty; and the duties of interpreter were discharged for him throughout in the most efficient manner by the gentleman above referred to, Mr. Heusken, the American Secretary, whom he found ’not only competent for his special work, but also in the highest degree intelligent and obliging.’