FIRST MISSION TO CHINA.  JAPAN.

EMBARK FOR JAPAN—­COAST VIEWS—­SIMODA—­OFF YEDDO—­YEDDO—­CONFERENCES—­A
COUNTRY RIDE—­PEACE AND PLENTY—­FEUDAL SYSTEM—­A TEMPLE—­A
JUGGLER—­SIGNING THE TREATY—­ITS TERMS—­RETROSPECT.

[Sidenote:  Embark for Japan.]

‘On the last day of July, 1858,’ writes Mr. Oliphant, we embarked on board the “Furious,” delighted, under any circumstances, to escape from the summer heats of Shanghae, were it only for a few weeks; but our gratification increased by the anticipation of visiting scenes which had ever been veiled in the mystery of a jealous and rigid seclusion.’...  There was a charm also in the very indefiniteness and uncertainty of the objects of the expedition.  ‘I do not exactly know,’ wrote Lord Elgin, ’what I shall do when I get to Nagasaki; but, at any rate, I shall ascertain what my chances are of making a satisfactory treaty with Japan.’

The ‘Furious’ was accompanied by the ‘Retribution’ and by the ‘Lee’ gunboat; and it was arranged that the Admiral should join them at Nagasaki.

Nagasaki.—­August 3rd.—­We have had beautiful weather, and have reached this point,—­a quiet, small-looking town, fringing the bottom of a bay, which is itself the close of a channel passing between ranges of high volcanic hills, rugged and bold, but luxuriant with vegetation and trees, and cultivated in terraces up to their summits.  I have seen nothing so beautiful in point of scenery for many a long day.  No sort of difficulty has been made to our progress up to the town.  The only symptom of objection I observed was an official in a boat, who waved a fan, and when he saw we took no notice, sat down again and went on with a book which he seemed to be reading.  On both sides of the channel, however, there is a very formidable display of cannons and works of defence, which I apprehend would not be very formidable in action.  I have heard little in the way of news yet, but I am disposed to believe that nothing can be accomplished here, and that if anything is to be done we must go on to Yeddo.  It is still hot, but the air, which comes down from these lofty hills, is, I think, fresher than that which passes over the boundless level in the vicinity of Shanghae.

August 4th.—­I have just had a visit from the Vice-Governor of Nagasaki.  One of his own suite did the interpretation.  These are the nicest people possible.  None of the stiffness and bigotry of the Chinese.  I gave them luncheon, and it was wonderful how nicely they managed with knives and forks and all other strange implements.  The Admiral arrived this forenoon.  He now finds that his instructions direct him to send the ‘Emperor’ yacht (which is to be a present) to Yeddo.  I shall take advantage of this and go to Yeddo myself at once.  I may do something, or find out what I can do.

August 5th.—­Four P.M.—­The heat yesterday, and for the two nights at Nagasaki,