a plain, till we reached a temple at which the Plenipotentiaries were awaiting us.  A dense crowd of Chinese men—­I saw not one woman—­lined the route.  Curiosity chiefly was depicted on their countenances; some looked frightened; but I observed no symptoms of ill-will.  At the entrance of the temple were two blind musicians, playing something like squeaking bagpipes.  This was the Chinese band.  We marched in with all our force, which drew up in a sort of court before an open verandah, where refreshments were set out, and the dignitaries awaited us.  I was received by the Imperial Commissioner, and conducted to a seat at a small table covered with little plates of sweetmeats, &c.  One of the Chinese Plenipotentiaries sat on either side of me.  It was a very pretty scene, and the place was decorated in very good taste with flowers, &c.  As my neighbours showed no disposition to talk, I began by asking after their health and that of the Emperor.  They then said that they had received the Emperor’s orders to come down to treat of our affairs.  I answered, that although I was much grieved by the neglect of the Prime Minister to answer the letters I had addressed to him, yet as they had on their cards stated that they had ‘full powers,’ I had consented to have this interview in order that we might compare our powers, and see whether we could treat together.  I told them that I had brought mine, and I at once exhibited them, giving them a translation of the documents.  They said they had not powers of the same kind, but a decree of the Emperor appointing them, and they brought out a letter which was wrapped up in a sheet of yellow paper.  The chief Plenipotentiary rose and raised the paper reverentially over his head before unfolding it.  I thought the terms of this document rather ambiguous, besides which I was desirous to produce a certain effect; so when it had been translated to me, I said that I was not sufficiently satisfied with it to be able to say on the spot whether I could treat with them or not; that I would, if they pleased, take a copy of it and consider the matter; but that I would not enter upon business with them at present.  So saying I rose, moved to the front of the stage, and ordered the escort to move and the chairs to be brought.  This put the poor people into a terrible fluster.  They made great efforts to induce me to sit down again, but I acted the part of the ‘uncontrollably fierce’ to perfection, and set off for my abode.  I had hardly reached it when I received two cards from my poor mandarins, thanking me for having gone so far to meet them, &c.

June 12th.—­I have gone through a good deal since we parted.  Certainly I have seen more to disgust me with my fellow-countrymen than I saw during the whole course of my previous life, since I have found them in the East among populations too timid to resist and too ignorant to complain.  I have an instinct in me which loves righteousness and hates iniquity, and all this keeps me in a perpetual boil.

[Sidenote:  Treaty signed.]