flats, fringed by hills of a goodly height—­say from 600 to 1,200 feet,—­which cluster together as they recede from the sea-board, compressing the flats into narrow valleys, and finally extinguishing them altogether.  The hills themselves barren, with patches here and there of Chinese cultivation and fir plantations, the first I have seen in China.  Turn your eyes to the sea, and you have before you innumerable islands dotting its surface, the same in character, though smaller in size, than that on which you are standing.  I have seldom seen a more delightful spot.  In going on our walk, we passed by the burying-ground of the British who died while we occupied the island, and we did something to put order among their neglected graves.  On our return, we passed by a cottage where an old lady was seated at her spinning-wheel.  I entered.  She received us most courteously, placed chairs for us, and immediately set to work to prepare tea.  When she found that one of the party was a doctor, a son (grown up) was produced who was suffering from ague.  We brought him on board, and gave him some quinine.  He showed us the medicine he was taking.  It appeared to be a sort of mash of bits of bamboo and all sorts of vegetable ingredients.  The doctor who tried it said it had no taste.  I should mention that at the landing-place we met some of the French, missionary’s boys, who brought me a present of eggs and fowls and salad from the farm, in return for a dollar which I gave them yesterday to buy cakes withal.

[Sidenote:  Potou.] [Sidenote:  Bonzes.]

     March 23rd.—­We set off this morning to visit Potou.[4] After
    lauding on the beach, we proceeded along a spacious paved path to a
    monastery, in a very picturesque spot under the grey granite hills.  We
    entered the buildings, which were like all other Buddhistic temples
    —­the same images, &c.—­and were soon surrounded by crowds of the most
    filthy and miserable-looking bonzes, some clad in grey and some in
    yellow.  All were very civil, however, and on the invitation of the
    superior—­who had a much more intelligent look than the rest—­we went
    into an apartment at the side of the temple and had some tea.  After a
    short rest we proceeded on our way, and mounted a hill about 1,500
    feet in height, passing by some more temples on the way.  I never saw
    human beings apparently in a lower condition than these bonzes, though
    some of the temples were under repair, and on the whole tolerably
    cared for.  The view from the top of the hill was magnificent, and
    there was glorious music here and there, from the sea rolling in upon
    the sandy beach.  We met some women (not young ones) going up the hill
    in chairs to worship at the temples, and found, in some, individuals
    at their devotions.  In one there was a monk, hidden behind a great
    drum, repeating in a plaintive