rose into sight and faded from our view, and the
bright phosphorescent light of the sea cut by
our prow, and which, despite the clearness of the night,
was sometimes almost too brilliant to be gazed
at. When we dropped our anchor, the captain
still professed to doubt whether or not he would have
to proceed immediately; but he gave me to understand
that, if he could not accomplish this, he would
not wish to leave until twelve to- day, so that
I should in that case have an opportunity of landing
and ascending the mountain summit. On this
hint I had a bed prepared on deck (fearing the
heat of the cabins), and tried, though rather in vain,
to take a few hours’ sleep. At five A.M.
I was told that the Resident, Mr. Lewis, was on
board, that carriages and horses were ready, and
that, if I wished to mount the hill, the time had arrived
for the operation. I immediately made a hasty
toilette, and set forth accompanied by the General,
some of the others following. We were conveyed
in a carriage three miles, to the foot of the hill,
and on pony-back as much more up it, through a
dense tropical vegetation which reminded me of
my Jamaica days. At the end of the ride we arrived
at the Government bungalow, and found one of the most
magnificent views I ever witnessed; in the foreground
this tropical luxuriance, and beyond, far below,
the glistening sea studded with ships and boats
innumerable, over which again the Malay peninsula with
its varied outline. I had hardly begun to
admire the scene, when a gentleman in a blue flannel
sort of dress, with a roughish beard and a cigar
in his mouth, made his appearance, and was presented
to me as the Bishop of Labuan! He was there
endeavouring to recruit his health, which has
suffered a good deal. He complained of the damp
of the climate, while admitting its many charms,
and seemed to think that he owed to the dampness
a very bad cold by which he was afflicted. Soon
afterwards his wife joined us. They were both
at Sarawak when the last troubles took place,
and must have had a bad time of it. The Chinese
behaved well to them; indeed they seemed desirous
to make the Bishop their leader. His converts
(about fifty) were stanch, and he has a school
at which about the same number of Chinese boys are
educated. These facts pleaded in his favour,
and it says something for the Chinese that they
were not insensible to these claims. They committed
some cruel acts, but they certainly might have
committed more. They respected the women
except one (Mrs. C., whom they wounded severely),
and they stuck by the Bishop until they found that
he was trying to bring Brooke back. They
then turned upon him, and he had to run for his
life. The Bishop gave me an interesting description
of his school of Chinese boys. He says they
are much more like English boys than other Orientals:
that when a new boy comes they generally get up a
fight, and let him earn his place by his prowess.
But there is no managing them without pretty severe