Alexandria.—May 6th.—I
made up my letter last night, not knowing
how short the time of my sojourn
at Alexandria might be. But at about
one in the morning I received
a letter from Frederick,[3] telling me
that the steamer due at Suez
had not yet arrived, that an official
reception was to be
given me, and that I had better not land too
early.... Notwithstanding
which, washing decks, the morning gun, and a
bright sun, broke my slumbers
at an early hour, and I got up and
dressed soon after daybreak.
At about 6.30 A.M. a boat of the Pacha’s,
with a dignitary (who turned
out to be a very gentleman-like
Frenchman), arrived, and from
him I learnt that the Governor of
Alexandria, with a cortege
of dignitaries and a carriage and four, was
already at the shore awaiting
my arrival; but Frederick did not come
till about half-past nine,
and it was nearly ten before I landed. I
was then conducted by the
authorities to the palace in which I am now
writing, consisting of suites
of very handsome rooms, and commanding a
magnificent view of the sea.
About a dozen attendants are loitering
about and watching every movement,
not curiously, but in order to
supply any possible want.
At this very moment a mild-looking Turk is
peeping into my bed-room where
I am writing this letter, and supposing
that I may wish to be undisturbed,
has drawn a red cloth portiere
across the open doorway.
This palace, which is set apart for the
reception of distinguished
strangers, is situated in the Turkish
quarter of the town, and all
the houses around are inhabited by
Mussulmans. The windows
are all covered with latticed wooden shutters,
through which the wretched
women may, I suppose, peer as they do
through the grating at the
House of Commons, but which are at least as
impermeable to the mortal
eye from without. The streets are very
empty, as it is the Ramadan,
during which devout Turks fast and sleep
throughout the day, and indemnify
themselves by eating, drinking, and
amusing themselves all night.
Cairo.—May 7th.—Most of yesterday afternoon was spent in drinking coffee and smoking long pipes, two ladies partaking of the latter enjoyment after dinner at Mr. Green’s. One of them told me that she had dined with the Princess (the Pacha’s wife) a few days ago. She went at seven and left at half-past twelve, and with the exception of a half hour of dinner, all the rest of the time was spent in smoking and drinking coffee. After dinner, the mother of the Pacha’s only child came in and joined the party. She was treated with a certain consideration as being the mother of this child, although she was not given a pipe. The Princess seemed on very good terms with her. This child (a boy three years old) has an English nurse, and this nurse