two.  His chief reason however was, that the servants in Sky are, according to him, a faithless pack, and steal what they can; so that much is saved by the corn passing but once through their hands, as at each time they pilfer some.  It appears to me, that the gradaning is a strong proof of the laziness of the Highlanders, who will rather make fire act for them, at the expence of fodder, than labour themselves.  There was also, what I cannot help disliking at breakfast, cheese:  it is the custom over all the Highlands to have it; and it often smells very strong, and poisons to a certain degree the elegance of an Indian repast[500].  The day was showery; however, Rasay and I took a walk, and had some cordial conversation.  I conceived a more than ordinary regard for this worthy gentleman.  His family has possessed this island above four hundred years[501].  It is the remains of the estate of Macleod of Lewis, whom he represents.  When we returned, Dr. Johnson walked with us to see the old chapel.  He was in fine spirits.  He said,’ This is truly the patriarchal life:  this is what we came to find.’  After dinner, M’Cruslick, Malcolm, and I, went out with guns, to try if we could find any black-cock; but we had no sport, owing to a heavy rain.  I saw here what is called a Danish fort.  Our evening was passed as last night was.  One of our company, I was told, had hurt himself by too much study, particularly of infidel metaphysicians; of which he gave a proof, on second sight being mentioned.  He immediately retailed some of the fallacious arguments of Voltaire and Hume against miracles in general.  Infidelity in a Highland gentleman appeared to me peculiarly offensive.  I was sorry for him, as he had otherwise a good character.  I told Dr. Johnson that he had studied himself into infidelity.  JOHNSON.  ’Then he must study himself out of it again.  That is the way.  Drinking largely will sober him again.’

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 10.

Having resolved to explore the Island of Rasay, which could be done only on foot, I last night obtained my fellow-traveller’s permission to leave him for a day, he being unable to take so hardy a walk.  Old Mr. Malcolm M’Cleod, who had obligingly promised to accompany me, was at my bed-side between five and six.  I sprang up immediately, and he and I, attended by two other gentlemen, traversed the country during the whole of this day.  Though we had passed over not less than four-and-twenty miles of very rugged ground, and had a Highland dance on the top of Dun Can, the highest mountain in the island, we returned in the evening not at all fatigued, and piqued ourselves at not being outdone at the nightly ball by our less active friends, who had remained at home.