told that his island of Rasay, and that of Rona, (from
which the eldest son of the family has his title,)
and a considerable extent of land which he has in
Sky, do not altogether yield him a very large revenue[497]:
and yet he lives in great splendour; and so far is
he from distressing his people, that, in the present
rage for emigration, not a man has left his estate.
It was past six o’clock when we arrived.
Some excellent brandy was served round immediately,
according to the custom of the Highlands, where a dram
is generally taken every day. They call it a
scalch[498]. On a side-board was placed
for us, who had come off the sea, a substantial dinner,
and a variety of wines. Then we had coffee and
tea. I observed in the room several elegantly
bound books, and other marks of improved life.
Soon afterwards a fidler appeared, and a little ball
began. Rasay himself danced with as much spirit
as any man, and Malcolm bounded like a roe. Sandie
Macleod, who has at times an excessive flow of spirits,
and had it now, was, in his days of absconding, known
by the name of M’Cruslick[499], which
it seems was the designation of a kind of wild man
in the Highlands, something between Proteus and Don
Quixote; and so he was called here. He made much
jovial noise. Dr. Johnson was so delighted with
this scene, that he said, ’I know not how we
shall get away.’ It entertained me to observe
him sitting by, while we danced, sometimes in deep
meditation,—sometimes smiling complacently,—sometimes
looking upon Hooke’s Roman History,—and
sometimes talking a little, amidst the noise of the
ball, to Mr. Donald M’Queen, who anxiously gathered
knowledge from him. He was pleased with M’Queen,
and said to me, ’This is a critical man, Sir.
There must be great vigour of mind to make him cultivate
learning so much in the isle of Sky, where he might
do without it. It is wonderful how many of the
new publications he has. There must be a snatch
of every opportunity.’ Mr. M’Queen
told me that his brother (who is the fourth generation
of the family following each other as ministers of
the parish of Snizort,) and he joined together, and
bought from time to time such books as had reputation.
Soon after we came in, a black cock and grey hen, which
had been shot, were shewn, with their feathers on,
to Dr. Johnson, who had never seen that species of
bird before. We had a company of thirty at supper;
and all was good humour and gaiety, without intemperance.
THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 9.
At breakfast this morning, among a profusion of other things, there were oat-cakes, made of what is called graddaned meal, that is, meal made of grain separated from the husks, and toasted by fire, instead of being threshed and kiln-dried. This seems to be bad management, as so much fodder is consumed by it. Mr. M’Queen however defended it, by saying, that it is doing the thing much quicker, as one operation effects what is otherwise done by