The governour has a very good garden.  We looked at it, and at the rest of the fort, which is but small, and may be commanded from a variety of hills around.  We also looked at the galley or sloop belonging to the fort, which sails upon the Loch, and brings what is wanted for the garrison.  Captains Urie and Darippe, of the 15th regiment of foot, breakfasted with us.  They had served in America, and entertained Dr. Johnson much with an account of the Indians.[424] He said, he could make a very pretty book out of them, were he to stay there.  Governour Trapaud was much struck with Dr. Johnson.  ’I like to hear him, (said he,) it is so majestick.  I should be glad to hear him speak in your court.’  He pressed us to stay dinner; but I considered that we had a rude road before us, which we could more easily encounter in the morning, and that it was hard to say when we might get up, were we to sit down to good entertainment, in good company:  I therefore begged the governour would excuse us.  Here too, I had another very pleasing proof how much my father is regarded.  The governour expressed the highest respect for him, and bade me tell him, that, if he would come that way on the Northern circuit, he would do him all the honours of the garrison.

Between twelve and one we set out, and travelled eleven miles, through a wild country, till we came to a house in Glenmorison, called Anoch, kept by a McQueen[425].  Our landlord was a sensible fellow; he had learned his grammar[426], and Dr. Johnson justly observed, that ’a man is the better for that as long as he lives.’  There were some books here:  a Treatise against Drunkenness, translated from the French; a volume of The Spectator; a volume of Prideaux’s Connection, and Cyrus’s Travels[427].  McQueen said he had more volumes; and his pride seemed to be much piqued that we were surprised at his having books.

Near to this place we had passed a party of soldiers, under a serjeant’s command, at work upon the road.  We gave them two shillings to drink.  They came to our inn, and made merry in the barn.  We went and paid them a visit, Dr. Johnson saying, ’Come, let’s go and give ’em another shilling a-piece.’  We did so; and he was saluted ‘MY LORD’ by all of them.  He is really generous, loves influence, and has the way of gaining it.  He said, ‘I am quite feudal, Sir.’  Here I agree with him.  I said, I regretted I was not the head of a clan; however, though not possessed of such an hereditary advantage, I would always endeavour to make my tenants follow me.  I could not be a patriarchal chief, but I would be a feudal chief.

The poor soldiers got too much liquor.  Some of them fought, and left blood upon the spot, and cursed whiskey next morning.  The house here was built of thick turfs, and thatched with thinner turfs and heath.  It had three rooms in length, and a little room which projected.  Where we sat, the side-walls were wainscotted, as Dr. Johnson said, with wicker, very neatly plaited.  Our landlord had made the whole with his own hands.