Dr. Johnson thanked him for his book, and said ’it was a very pretty piece of topography.’  M’Aulay did not seem much to mind the compliment.  From his conversation, Dr. Johnson was persuaded that he had not written the book which goes under his name.  I myself always suspected so; and I have been told it was written by the learned Dr. John M’Pherson of Sky[372], from the materials collected by M’Aulay.  Dr. Johnson said privately to me, ’There is a combination in it of which M’Aulay is not capable[373].’  However, he was exceedingly hospitable; and, as he obligingly promised us a route for our Tour through the Western Isles, we agreed to stay with him all night.

After dinner, we walked to the old castle of Calder (pronounced Cawder), the Thane of Cawdor’s seat.  I was sorry that my friend, this ’prosperous gentleman[374],’ was not there.  The old tower must be of great antiquity[375].  There is a draw-bridge—­what has been a moat,—­and an ancient court.  There is a hawthorn-tree, which rises like a wooden pillar through the rooms of the castle; for, by a strange conceit, the walls have been built round it.  The thickness of the walls, the small slaunting windows, and a great iron door at the entrance on the second story as you ascend the stairs, all indicate the rude times in which this castle was erected.  There were here some large venerable trees.

I was afraid of a quarrel between Dr. Johnson and Mr. M’Aulay, who talked slightingly of the lower English clergy.  The Doctor gave him a frowning look, and said, ’This is a day of novelties; I have seen old trees in Scotland, and I have heard the English clergy treated with disrespect[376].’

I dreaded that a whole evening at Calder manse would be heavy; however, Mr. Grant, an intelligent and well-bred minister in the neighbourhood, was there, and assisted us by his conversation.  Dr. Johnson, talking of hereditary occupations in the Highlands, said, ’There is no harm in such a custom as this; but it is wrong to enforce it, and oblige a man to be a taylor or a smith, because his father has been one.’  This custom, however, is not peculiar to our Highlands; it is well known that in India a similar practice prevails.

Mr. M’Aulay began a rhapsody against creeds and confessions.  Dr. Johnson shewed, that ’what he called imposition, was only a voluntary declaration of agreement in certain articles of faith, which a church has a right to require, just as any other society can insist on certain rules being observed by its members.  Nobody is compelled to be of the church, as nobody is compelled to enter into a society.’  This was a very clear and just view of the subject:  but, M’Aulay could not be driven out of his track.  Dr. Johnson said, ‘Sir, you are a bigot to laxness.’