We found Mr. Griffiths not at home; but the provisions were good.  Mr. Griffiths came home the next day.  He married a lady who has a house and estate at [Llanver], over against Anglesea, and near Caernarvon, where she is more disposed, as it seems, to reside than at Bryn o dol.

I read Lloyd’s account of Mona, which he proves to be Anglesea.

In our way to Bryn o dol, we saw at Llanerk a Church built crosswise, very spacious and magnificent for this country.  We could not see the Parson, and could get no intelligence about it.

AUGUST 24.

We went to see Bodville.  Mrs. Thrale remembered the rooms, and wandered over them with recollection of her childhood.  This species of pleasure is always melancholy.  The walk was cut down, and the pond was dry.  Nothing was better.[1229]

We surveyed the Churches, which are mean, and neglected to a degree scarcely imaginable.  They have no pavement, and the earth is full of holes.  The seats are rude benches; the Altars have no rails.  One of them has a breach in the roof.  On the desk, I think, of each lay a folio Welsh Bible of the black letter, which the curate cannot easily read.[1230]

Mr. Thrale purposes to beautify the Churches, and if he prospers, will probably restore the tithes.  The two parishes are, Llangwinodyl and Tydweilliog.[1231] The Methodists are here very prevalent.  A better church will impress the people with more reverence of publick worship.

Mrs. Thrale visited a house where she had been used to drink milk, which was left, with an estate of two hundred pounds a year, by one Lloyd, to a married woman who lived with him.

We went to Pwllheli, a mean old town, at the extremity of the country.  Here we bought something, to remember the place.

AUGUST 25.

We returned to Caernarvon, where we ate with Mrs. Wynne.

AUGUST 26.

We visited, with Mrs. Wynne, Llyn Badarn and Llyn Beris, two lakes, joined by a narrow strait.  They are formed by the waters which fall from Snowdon and the opposite mountains.  On the side of Snowdon are the remains of a large fort, to which we climbed with great labour.  I was breathless and harassed.  The Lakes have no great breadth, so that the boat is always near one bank or the other.

Note.  Queeny’s goats, one hundred and forty-nine, I think.[1232]

AUGUST 27.

We returned to Bangor, where Mr. Thrale was lodged at Mr. Roberts’s, the
Register.

AUGUST 28.

We went to worship at the Cathedral.  The quire is mean, the service was not well read.

AUGUST 29.

We came to Mr. Myddelton’s, of Gwaynynog, to the first place, as my
Mistress observed, where we have been welcome.

Note.  On the day when we visited Bodville, we turned to the house of Mr. Griffiths, of Kefnamwycllh, a gentleman of large fortune, remarkable for having made great and sudden improvements in his seat and estate.  He has enclosed a large garden with a brick wall.  He is considered as a man of great accomplishments.  He was educated in literature at the University, and served some time in the army, then quitted his commission, and retired to his lands.  He is accounted a good man, and endeavours to bring the people to church.