AUGUST 18.

We left Lleweney, and went forwards on our journey.

We came to Abergeley, a mean town, in which little but Welsh is spoken, and divine service is seldom performed in English.

Our way then lay to the sea-side, at the foot of a mountain, called Penmaen Rhos.  Here the way was so steep, that we walked on the lower edge of the hill, to meet the coach, that went upon a road higher on the hill.  Our walk was not long, nor unpleasant:  the longer I walk, the less I feel its inconvenience.  As I grow warm, my breath mends, and I think my limbs grow pliable.

We then came to Conway Ferry, and passed in small boats, with some passengers from the stage coach, among whom were an Irish gentlewoman, with two maids, and three little children, of which, the youngest was only a few months old.  The tide did not serve the large ferry-boat, and therefore our coach could not very soon follow us.  We were, therefore, to stay at the Inn.  It is now the day of the Race at Conway, and the town was so full of company, that no money could purchase lodgings.  We were not very readily supplied with cold dinner.  We would have staid at Conway if we could have found entertainment, for we were afraid of passing Penmaen Mawr, over which lay our way to Bangor, but by bright daylight, and the delay of our coach made our departure necessarily late.  There was, however, no stay on any other terms, than of sitting up all night.

The poor Irish lady was still more distressed.  Her children wanted rest.  She would have been content with one bed, but, for a time, none could be had.  Mrs. Thrale gave her what help she could.  At last two gentlemen were persuaded to yield up their room, with two beds, for which she gave half a guinea.  Our coach was at last brought, and we set out with some anxiety, but we came to Penmaen Mawr by daylight; and found a way, lately made, very easy, and very safe.[1224] It was cut smooth, and enclosed between parallel walls; the outer of which secures the passenger from the precipice, which is deep and dreadful.  This wall is here and there broken, by mischievous wantonness.[1225] The inner wall preserves the road from the loose stones, which the shattered steep above it would pour down.  That side of the mountain seems to have a surface of loose stones, which every accident may crumble.  The old road was higher, and must have been very formidable.  The sea beats at the bottom of the way.

At evening the moon shone eminently bright; and our thoughts of danger being now past, the rest of our journey was very pleasant.  At an hour somewhat late, we came to Bangor, where we found a very mean inn, and had some difficulty to obtain lodging.  I lay in a room, where the other bed had two men.

AUGUST 19.

We obtained boats to convey us to Anglesey, and saw Lord Bulkeley’s
House, and Beaumaris Castle.

I was accosted by Mr. Lloyd, the Schoolmaster of Beaumaris, who had seen me at University College; and he, with Mr. Roberts, the Register of Bangor, whose boat we borrowed, accompanied us.  Lord Bulkeley’s house is very mean, but his garden garden is spacious, and shady with large trees and smaller interspersed.  The walks are straight, and cross each other, with no variety of plan; but they have a pleasing coolness, and solemn gloom, and extend to a great length.