SATURDAY, OCTOBER 30.

We set out towards Ayrshire.  I sent Joseph on to Loudoun, with a message, that, if the Earl was at home, Dr. Johnson and I would have the honour to dine with him.  Joseph met us on the road, and reported that the Earl ‘jumped for joy,’ and said, ’I shall be very happy to see them.’  We were received with a most pleasing courtesy by his Lordship, and by the Countess his mother, who, in her ninety-fifth year, had all her faculties quite unimpaired[1000].  This was a very cheering sight to Dr. Johnson, who had an extraordinary desire for long life.  Her ladyship was sensible and well-informed, and had seen a great deal of the world.  Her lord had held several high offices, and she was sister to the great Earl of Stair[1001].

I cannot here refrain from paying a just tribute to the character of John Earl of Loudoun, who did more service to the county of Ayr in general, as well as to the individuals in it, than any man we have ever had.  It is painful to think that he met with much ingratitude from persons both in high and low rank:  but such was his temper, such his knowledge of ‘base mankind[1002],’ that, as if he had expected no other return, his mind was never soured, and he retained his good-humour and benevolence to the last.  The tenderness of his heart was proved in 1745-6, when he had an important command in the Highlands, and behaved with a generous humanity to the unfortunate.  I cannot figure a more honest politician; for, though his interest in our county was great, and generally successful, he not only did not deceive by fallacious promises, but was anxious that people should not deceive themselves by too sanguine expectations.  His kind and dutiful attention to his mother was unremitted.  At his house was true hospitality; a plain but a plentiful table; and every guest, being left at perfect freedom, felt himself quite easy and happy.  While I live, I shall honour the memory of this amiable man[1003].

At night, we advanced a few miles farther, to the house of Mr. Campbell of Treesbank, who was married to one of my wife’s sisters, and were entertained very agreeably by a worthy couple.

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 31.

We reposed here in tranquillity.  Dr. Johnson was pleased to find a numerous and excellent collection of books, which had mostly belonged to the Reverend Mr. John Campbell, brother of our host.  I was desirous to have procured for my fellow-traveller, to-day, the company of Sir John Cuninghame, of Caprington, whose castle was but two miles from us.  He was a very distinguished scholar, was long abroad, and during part of the time lived much with the learned Cuninghame[1004], the opponent of Bentley as a critick upon Horace.  He wrote Latin with great elegance, and, what is very remarkable, read Homer and Ariosto through every year.  I wrote to him to request he would come to us; but unfortunately he was prevented by indisposition.