As we travelled this forenoon, we met Dr. McLean, who expressed much regret at his having been so unfortunate as to be absent while we were at his house.

We were in hopes to get to Sir Allan Maclean’s at Inchkenneth, to-night; but the eight miles, of which our road was said to consist, were so very long, that we did not reach the opposite coast of Mull till seven at night, though we had set out about eleven in the forenoon; and when we did arrive there, we found the wind strong against us.  Col determined that we should pass the night at M’Quarrie’s, in the island of Ulva, which lies between Mull and Inchkenneth; and a servant was sent forward to the ferry, to secure the boat for us; but the boat was gone to the Ulva side, and the wind was so high that the people could not hear him call; and the night so dark that they could not see a signal.  We should have been in a very bad situation, had there not fortunately been lying in the little sound of Ulva an Irish vessel, the Bonnetta, of Londonderry, Captain M’Lure, master.  He himself was at M’Quarrie’s; but his men obligingly came with their long-boat, and ferried us over.  M’Quarrie’s house was mean; but we were agreeably surprized with the appearance of the master, whom we found to be intelligent, polite, and much a man of the world.  Though his clan is not numerous, he is a very ancient Chief, and has a burial place at Icolmkill.  He told us, his family had possessed Ulva for nine hundred years; but I was distressed to hear that it was soon to be sold for payment of his debts.

Captain M’Lure, whom we found here, was of Scotch extraction, and properly a McLeod, being descended of some of the M’Leods who went with Sir Normand of Bernera to the battle of Worcester; and after the defeat of the royalists, fled to Ireland, and, to conceal themselves, took a different name.  He told me, there was a great number of them about Londonderry; some of good property.  I said, they should now resume their real name.  The Laird of M’Leod should go over, and assemble them, and make them all drink the large horn full[859], and from that time they should be M’Leods.  The captain informed us, he had named his ship the Bonnetta, out of gratitude to Providence; for once, when he was sailing to America with a good number of passengers, the ship in which he then sailed was becalmed for five weeks, and during all that time, numbers of the fish Bonnetta swam close to her, and were caught for food; he resolved therefore, that the ship he should next get, should be called the Bonnetta.

M’Quarrie told us a strong instance of the second sight.  He had gone to Edinburgh, and taken a man-servant along with him.  An old woman, who was in the house, said one day, ’M’Quarrie will be at home to-morrow, and will bring two gentlemen with him;’ and she said, she saw his servant return in red and green.  He did come home next day.  He had two gentlemen with him; and his servant had a new red and green livery, which M’Quarrie had bought for him at Edinburgh, upon a sudden thought, not having the least intention when he left home to put his servant in livery; so that the old woman could not have heard any previous mention of it.  This, he assured us, was a true story.