of the hogs and sheep were quickly at their work, and, by the time they had the meat dressed and ready, most of the slaves had arrived at the center of attraction.  They gathered in groups, talking, laughing, telling tales that they had from their grandfather, or relating practical jokes that they had played or seen played by others.  These tales were received with peals of laughter.  But however much they seemed to enjoy these stories and social interchanges, they never lost sight of the trench or the spot where the sweetmeats were to be cooked.

The method of cooking the meat was to dig a trench in the ground about six feet long and eighteen inches deep.  This trench was filled with wood and bark which was set on fire, and, when it was burned to a great bed of coals, the hog was split through the back bone, and laid on poles which had been placed across the trench.  The sheep were treated in the same way, and both were turned from side to side as they cooked.  During the process of roasting the cooks basted the carcasses with a preparation furnished from the great house, consisting of butter, pepper, salt and vinegar, and this was continued until the meat was ready to serve.  Not far from this trench were the iron ovens, where the sweetmeats were cooked.  Three or four women were assigned to this work.  Peach cobbler and apple dumpling were the two dishes that made old slaves smile for joy and the young fairly dance.  The crust or pastry of the cobbler was prepared in large earthen bowls, then rolled out like any pie crust, only it was almost twice as thick.  A layer of this crust was laid in the oven, then a half peck of peaches poured, in, followed by a layer of sugar; then a covering of pastry was laid over all and smoothed around with a knife.  The oven was then put over a bed of coals, the cover put on and coals thrown on it, and the process of baking began.  Four of these ovens were usually in use at these feasts, so that enough of the pastry might be baked to supply all.  The ovens were filled and refilled until there was no doubt about the quantity.  The apple dumplings were made in the usual way, only larger, and served with sauce made from brown sugar.  It lacked flavoring, such as cinnamon or lemon, yet it was a dish highly relished by all the slaves.  I know that these feasts made me so excited, I could scarcely do my house duties, and I would never fail to stop and look out of the window from the dining room down into the quarters.  I was eager to get through with my work and be with the feasters.  About noon everything was ready to serve.  The table was set in a grove near the quarters, a place set aside for these occasions.  The tableware was not fine, being of tin, but it served the purpose, and did not detract from the slaves’ relish for the feast.  The drinks were strictly temperance drinks—­buttermilk and water.  Some of the nicest portions of the meat were sliced off and put on a platter to send to the great house for Boss