Having gratified their curiosity with an inspection of every object of interest at Tepellene, the travellers returned Joannina, where they again resided several days, partaking of the hospitality of the principal inhabitants.  On the 3rd of November they bade it adieu, and returned to Salona, on the Golf of Arta; where, in consequence of hearing that the inhabitants of Carnia were up in arms, that numerous bands of robbers had descended from the mountains of Ziccola and Agrapha, and had made their appearance on the other side of the gulf, they resolved to proceed by water to Prevesa, and having presented an order which they had received from Ali Pasha, for the use of his galliot, she was immediately fitted out to convey them.  In the course of the voyage they suffered a great deal of alarm, ran some risk, and were obliged to land on the mainland of Albania, in a bay called Fanari, contiguous to the mountainous district of Sulli.  There they procured horses, and rode to Volondorako, a town belonging to the Vizier, by the primate of which and his highness’s garrison they were received with all imaginable civility.  Having passed the night there, they departed in the morning, which, proving bright and beautiful, afforded them interesting views of the steep romantic environs of Sulli.

   Land of Albania, where Iskander rose,
   Theme of the young, and beacon of the wise,
   And he his namesake whose oft-baffled foes
   Shrunk from his deeds of chivalrous emprise;
   Land of Albania! let me bend mine eyes
   On thee, thou rugged nurse of savage men! 
   The Cross descends, thy minarets arise,
   And the pale crescent sparkles in the glen,
Through many a cypress grove within each city’s ken.

Of the inhabitants of Albania—­the Arnaouts or Albanese—­Lord Byron says they reminded him strongly of the Highlanders of Scotland, whom they undoubtedly resemble in dress, figure, and manner of living.  “The very mountains seemed Caledonian with a kinder climate.  The kilt, though white, the spare active form, their dialect, Celtic in its sound, and their hardy habits, all carried me back to Morven.  No nation are so detested and dreaded by their neighbours as the Albanese; the Greeks hardly regard them as Christians, or the Turks as Moslems, and in fact they are a mixture of both, and sometimes neither.  Their habits are predatory:  all are armed, and the red-shawled Arnaouts, the Montenegrins, Chimeriotes, and Gedges, are treacherous; the others differ somewhat in garb, and essentially in character.  As far as my own experience goes, I can speak favourably.  I was attended by two, an infidel and a Mussulman, to Constantinople and every other part of Turkey which came within my observations, and men more faithful in peril and indefatigable in service are nowhere to be found.  The infidel was named Basilius, the Moslem Dervish Tahiri; the former a man of middle age, and the latter about my own.  Basili was strictly charged by Ali Pasha in person to attend us, and Dervish was one of fifty who accompanied us through the forests of Acarnania, to the banks of the Achelous, and onward to Missolonghi.  There I took him into my own service, and never had occasion to repent it until the moment of my departure.