Having re-embarked, the Spider proceeded towards her destination; the poet not receiving much augmentation to his ideas of the grandeur of the ancients, from the magnitude of their realms and states. Ithaca, which he doubtless regarded with wonder and disappointment, as he passed its cliffy shores, was then in the possession of the French. In the course of a month after, the kingdom of Ulysses surrendered to a British serjeant and seven men.
Childe Harold sail’d, and
pass’d the barren spot,
Where sad Penelope o’erlook’d
the wave;
And onward view’d the mount,
not yet forgot.
The lover’s refuge, and the
Lesbian’s grave.
But when he saw the evening star
above
Leucadia’s far-projecting
rock of woe,
And hail’d the last resort
of fruitless love,
He felt, or deem’d he felt,
no common glow;
And as the stately vessel glided
slow
Beneath the shadow of that ancient
mount,
He watch’d the billows’
melancholy flow,
And, sunk albeit in thought as he
was wont—
More placid seem’d his eye, and smooth his pallid
front.
At seven in the evening, of the same day on which he passed Leucadia, the vessel came to anchor off Prevesa. The day was wet and gloomy, and the appearance of the town was little calculated to bespeak cheerfulness. But the novelty in the costume and appearance of the inhabitants and their dwellings, produced an immediate effect on the imagination of Byron, and we can trace the vivid impression animating and adorning his descriptions.
The wild Albanian, kirtled to his
knee,
With shawl-girt head and ornamented
gun,
And gold-embroider’d garments,
fair to see;
The crimson-scarfed men of Macedon;
The Delhi with his cap of terror
on,
And crooked glaive; the lively,
supple Greek,
And swarthy Nubia’s mutilated
son;
The bearded Turk, that rarely deigns
to speak,
Master of all around, too potent to be meek.
Having partaken of a consecutive dinner, dish after dish, with the brother of the English consul, the travellers proceeded to visit the Governor of the town: he resided within the enclosure of a fort, and they were conducted towards him by a long gallery, open on one side, and through several large unfurnished rooms. In the last of this series, the Governor received them with the wonted solemn civility of the Turks, and entertained them with pipes and coffee. Neither his appearance, nor the style of the entertainment, were distinguished by any display of Ottoman grandeur; he was seated on a sofa in the midst of a group of shabby Albanian guards, who had but little reverence for the greatness of the guests, as they sat down beside them, and stared and laughed at their conversation with the Governor.
But if the circumstances and aspect of the place derived no importance from visible splendour, every object around was enriched with stories and classical recollections. The battle of Actium was fought within the gulf.