a fragment of the church of the nunnery, with a detached
campanile, or “steeple-house,” built to
contain the bells after the destruction of the central
tower and choir of the conventual church. Few
villages are so little modernized as Elstow.
The old half-timbered cottages with overhanging storeys,
peaked dormers, and gabled porches, tapestried with
roses and honeysuckles, must be much what they were
in Bunyan’s days. A village street, with
detached cottages standing in gardens gay with the
homely flowers John Bunyan knew and loved, leads to
the village green, fringed with churchyard elms, in
the middle of which is the pedestal or stump of the
market-cross, and at the upper end of the old “Moot
Hall,” a quaint brick and timber building, with
a projecting upper storey, a good example of the domestic
architecture of the fifteenth century, originally,
perhaps, the Guesten-Hall of the adjacent nunnery,
and afterwards the Court House of the manor when lay-lords
had succeeded the abbesses—“the scene,”
writes Dr. Brown “of village festivities, statute
hirings, and all the public occasions of village life.”
The whole spot and its surroundings can be but little
altered from the time when our hero was the ringleader
of the youth of the place in the dances on the greensward,
which he tells us he found it so hard to give up,
and in “tip-cat,” and the other innocent
games which his diseased conscience afterwards regarded
as “ungodly practices.” One may
almost see the hole from which he was going to strike
his “cat” that memorable Sunday afternoon
when he silenced the inward voice which rebuked him
for his sins, and “returned desperately to his
sport again.” On the south side of the
green, as we have said, stands the church, a fine
though somewhat rude fragment of the chapel of the
nunnery curtailed at both ends, of Norman and Early
English date, which, with its detached bell tower,
was the scene of some of the fierce spiritual conflicts
so vividly depicted by Bunyan in his “Grace
Abounding.” On entering every object speaks
of Bunyan. The pulpit—if it has survived
the recent restoration—is the same from
which Christopher Hall, the then “Parson”
of Elstow, preached the sermon which first awoke his
sleeping conscience. The font is that in which
he was baptized, as were also his father and mother
and remoter progenitors, as well as his children, Mary,
his dearly-loved blind child, on July 20, 1650, and
her younger sister, Elizabeth, on April 14, 1654.
An old oaken bench, polished by the hands of thousands
of visitors attracted to the village church by the
fame of the tinker of Elstow, is traditionally shown
as the seat he used to occupy when he “went
to church twice a day, and that, too, with the foremost
counting all things holy that were therein contained.”
The five bells which hang in the belfry are the same
in which Bunyan so much delighted, the fourth bell,
tradition says, being that he was used to ring.
The rough flagged floor, “all worn and broken