Built entirely on the hills which slope from a considerable eminence down to the Bosphorus. The trees towering among the houses, the high spires and gilded domes, have a most imposing effect; but what is the astonishment of the traveller when he commences his ascent up steep, narrow, clumsily-pitched streets. I could only compare them to the worst-constructed bridle-roads in England which the packhorses traversed centuries ago. The three days we were in the city I only saw one or two carriages,—the most curious vehicles; indeed, there is scarcely a street in which two carriages can pass. Donkeys are the chief carriers. As to dogs, they are born and bred in the streets and are the property of the town, and in the day-time He by dozens in the streets, young and old, are always under the feet of the traveller, and he must constantly poke them out of the way with his stick; by night they are furious. The shops present a jumble of all kinds of wares; and the Turks sit cross-legged in the window, or work at their trade inside.
They left Constantinople on the 15th, and on the 17th went on shore at Smyrna, where, at the house of the American missionary Ladd, they met with another missionary, named Stacking, returning with his family from Persia, where he had labored sixteen years among the Nestorians. The account which he gave John Yeardley of the creed and condition of the Nestorian Church, and of the schools which had been opened in Persia, aroused his deep sympathy and produced an abiding impression on his mind.
Smyrna, like the other Turkish cities which they saw, vividly impressed the travellers with its Oriental character.
Like Constantinople, says J.Y., it is a town of all nations. The streets are narrow, with a run of dirty water down the middle. We met docile camels in great number, bringing figs from the interior. In the fig-market were thousands of boxes being prepared and packed for exportation. It is a sight of interest to see Turks, Greeks, &c., huddled together, walking, talking, or sitting cross-legged and smoking their long pipes. We took donkeys and ascended the hill, where we obtained a good view of the town, and then examined the ruins where the ancient city stood, and saw the place where the message from Heaven was received by the angel of the church of Smyrna. The church of Polycarp stood not far from that of John the Baptist. After a visit of peculiar interest, I returned to the steam-ship and read the message to the church of Smyrna, which gave rise to more reflections than I can here record.
Steaming on the sea of Marmora, (to continue J.Y.’s narrative of his homeward journey), the Bosphorus and the Greek waters, was very pleasing. We had a good sight of the walls of ancient Troas, where the apostle Paul received the message in vision from the man of Macedonia, to come over and help them. The quarantine prevented us from landing at Syra; but I conveyed a note through the English Consul to my old friend Hildner, who came alongside our steamer. I learned from him that Argyri Climi was five years in his school, and usefully filled the office of teacher of the higher classes; had been married about ten years to a lieutenant in the army; had three children, and was living happily with her husband at the Piraeus. It appears she retains her religious principles.