Here there are only a few houses standing in the midst of ruins.  We took up our abode at the only inn, from the windows of which we looked upon the busy scene of a fair.  Our hearts were not enlarged, as the great Apostle’s was; for our spirits were clothed with mourning in contemplating the darkness of the place.  Many persons to whom we spoke could not read; and on offering a Testament to the man of the inn he refused to receive it.

We pursued our travels, and at mid-day met with a trying detention from the muleteer having neglected to obtain a permission.  We were at length suffered to proceed, but arrived late at a miserable khan, where we passed the night in a loft.  This poor place could only furnish two mules and a donkey, with a man to attend them; but we were encouraged to hope we should find four horses about two hours further on; but here we were disappointed, and could get no horses to proceed.  We felt truly destitute, and took refuge in a loft from the scorching rays of the sun.  We had very little food with us, and saw no probability of quitting our desolate abode till the next day at any rate.  Thus situated we were endeavoring to be reconciled to our allotment, when most unexpectedly, about two o’clock, we espied a small fishing-boat sailing towards Patras, and immediately ran down to the shore, a considerable distance, to make signals to the boat-man, and inquire whether he would convey us to Vostizza, a place within a day’s journey of Patras.  We directly procured a mule to convey our baggage to the shore, and descended by a very rough path to a creek where the boat lay to.  Here we were again detained by the guard making great difficulty in allowing the boatman to take passengers without a permit, which could only be obtained in the town, so strict and perplexing are the regulations for travellers under the new government.  However, after detaining us an hour and causing us to lose most of the fair wind, he suffered the man to take us.  We sailed along pretty well for a time, when the wind suddenly changed, and the boatman told us we could not get to Vostizza that night, but added they would put us on shore where we should be within an hour’s walk of it, and that we could readily find a mule to carry our baggage.  This we gladly accepted, and were soon landed and on our way.

Although sick and weary on board, we seemed to receive new strength for our walk, and arrived at Vostizza at about eight o’clock.  Here our accommodation for the night was much like our former lodging; for this large town has also been, burned by the enemy, and presents a scene of ruins.  We engaged horses for the next day to convey us to Patras, and were a little cheered with the prospect of being near that place of attraction.  The man of the house where we lodged could not read, but informed us there was a school in the town of fifty boys.  We saw a person in the next shop writing, and offered him a Testament, which he very gratefully received, and sent for the