But, on the contrary, with respect to my own experience in the Desert, the people appeared equally hostile or offended at my taking them by surprise.  Desert travelling after all is mostly an affair of luck.  Six travellers might be sent to Timbuctoo and three return, and three be murdered, and yet the three who were murdered might have been as prudent and as skilful as the three who were successful.  The Maroquine Government often shew a perfect Chinese jealousy of Europeans travelling in the interior.  When Doctor Willshire, brother of the Consul, returned from Morocco, the Government gave orders that “he should be taken directly to Mogador, and not be allowed to turn to the right hand or to the left, to collect old stones or herbs.”  This lynx-eyed government imagined they saw in Doctor Willshire’s botanical and mineralogical rambles, a design of spying out the powers and resources of the country.

The consentaneous progress of Morocco in the universal movement of the age, is argued by the merchants from an increased use of chairs, and knives and forks.  Some years ago, scarcely a knife and fork, or a chair was to be found in this part of Morocco.  Now, almost every house in the Jewish quarter has them.  The Jew of Barbary can use them with less scruple than the orthodox Tory Moor, who sets his face like flint against all changes, because his European brethren adopt them.  Many innovations of this domestic sort are introduced from Europe into North Africa through the instrumentality of native Jews.  Tea has become an article Of universal consumption.  It is, indeed, the wine of the Maroquine Mussulmen. [20] Even in remote provinces, amongst Bebers and Bedouins, the most miserable looking and living of people the finest green tea is to be found.

You enter a miserable looking hut, when you are amazed by the hostess unlocking an old box, and taking out a choice tea service, cups, saucers, tea-pot, and tea-tray, often of white china with gilt edges.  These, after use, are always kept locked up, as objects of most precious value.  The sugar is put in the tea-pot, and the Moors and Jews usually drink their tea so sweet that it may be called syrup.  But if any lady tries the plan of melting the sugar while the tea is brewing in the tea-pot, she will find the tea so prepared has acquired a different, and not disagreeable flavour.

Morocco has its fashions and manias as well as Europe.  House building is now the rage.  They say it is not so easy for the Sultan to fleece the people of their property when it consists of houses.  Almost every distinguished Moor in the interior has built, or is building himself a spacious house.  This mania is happily a useful one, and must advance the comfort and sanitary improvement of the people.  It is as good as a Health of Towns Bill for them.