We slept at Auburn, celebrated for its prison, where the highly-approved system of American discipline originated.  In this part of the country there is no want of churches; every little village has its wooden temple, and many of them too; that the Methodists and Presbyterians may not clash.

We passed through an Indian reserve, and the untouched forests again hung close upon the road.  Repeated groups of Indians passed us, and we remarked that they were much cleaner and better dressed than those we had met wandering far from their homes.  The blankets which they use so gracefully as mantles were as white as snow.

We took advantage of the loss of a horse’s shoe, to leave the coach, and approach a large party of them, consisting of men, women, and children, who were regaling themselves with I know not what, but milk made a part of the repast.  They could not talk to us, but they received us with smiles, and seemed to understand when we asked if they had mocassins to sell, for they shook their sable locks, and answered “no.”  A beautiful grove of butternut trees was pointed out to us, as the spot where the chiefs of the six nations used to hold their senate; our informer told me that he had been present at several of their meetings, and though he knew but little of their language, the power of their eloquence was evident from the great effect it produced among themselves.

Towards the end of this day, we encountered an adventure which revived our doubts whether the invading white men, in chasing the poor Indians from their forests, have done much towards civilizing the land.  For myself, I almost prefer the indigenous manner to the exotic.

The coach stopped to take in “a lady” at Vernon; she entered, and completely filled the last vacant inch of our vehicle; for “we were eight” before.

But no sooner was she seated, than her beau came forward with a most enormous wooden best-bonnet box.  He paused for a while to meditate the possibilities—­raised it, as if to place it on our laps—­sunk it, as if to put it beneath our feet.  Both alike appeared impossible; when, in true Yankee style he addressed one of our party with.  If you’ll just step out a minute, I guess I’ll find room for it.”

“Perhaps so.  But how shall I find room for myself afterwards?”

This was uttered in European accents, and in an instant half a dozen whiskey drinkers stepped from before the whiskey store, and took the part of the beau.

“That’s because you’ll be English travellers I expect, but we have travelled in better countries than Europe—­we have travelled in America—­and the box will go, I calculate.”

We remonstrated on the evident injustice of the proceeding, and I ventured to say, that as we had none of us any luggage in the carriage, because the space was so very small, I thought a chance passenger could have no right so greatly to incommode us.