“There were huge globes in one room that belonged to Cassini.  If what he showed me is not surpassed in the other rooms, I don’t think much of their instruments.

“M.  Leverrier said he had asked M. Chacornac to meet me, but he was not there.  I felt that we got on a little better, but not much, and it was evident that he did not expect me to understand an observatory.  We did not ascend to the domes.

“Leverrier has telegraphic communication with all Europe except Great Britain.

“It was quite singular that they made such different remarks to me.  Leverrier said that they had to make science popular.

“Airy said, ’In England there is no astronomical public, and we do not need to make science popular.’

“Jan. 24, 1858.  I am in Rome!  I have been here four days, and already I feel that I would rather have that four days in Rome than all the other days of my travels!  I have been uncomfortable, cold, tired, and subjected to all the evils of travelling; but for all that, I would not have missed the sort of realization that I have of the existence of the past of great glory, if I must have a thousand times the discomfort.  I went alone yesterday to St. Peter’s and the Vatican, and today, taking Murray, I went alone to the Roman Forum, and stood beside the ruined porticos and the broken columns of the Temple.  Then I pushed on to the Coliseum, and walked around its whole circumference.  I could scarcely believe that I really stood among the ruins, and was not dreaming!  I really think I had more enjoyment for going alone and finding out for myself.  Afterwards the Hawthornes called, and I took Mrs. H. to the same spot....

“I really feel the impressiveness of Rome.  All Europe has been serious to me; Rome is even sad in its seriousness.  You cannot help feeling, in the Coliseum, some little of the influence of the scenes that have been enacted there, even if you know little about them; you must remember that the vast numbers of people who have been within its walls for ages have not been common minds, whether they were Christian martyrs or travelling artists....

“I think if I had never heard before of the reputation of the pictures and statues of the Vatican, I should have perceived their superiority.  There is more idea of action conveyed by the statuary than I ever received before—­they do not seem to be dead.

“January 25.  I have finer rooms than I had in Paris, but the letting of apartments is better managed in Paris.  There you always find a concierge, who tells you all you want to know, and who speaks several languages.  In Rome you enter a narrow, dark passage, and look in vain for a door.  Then you go up a flight of stairs, and see a door with a string; you pull the string, and a woman puts her mouth to a square hole, covered with tin punctured with holes, and asks what you want.  You tell her, and she tells you to go up higher; you repeat the process, and at last reach the rooms.  The higher up the better, because you get some sun, and one learns the value of sunlight.  I saw no sun in Paris in my room, and here I have it half of the day, and it seems very pleasant.