“It was a picturesque but weary ride, and we were tired and hungry when we reached Nashville.

“May 11.  To-day we have been out for a two-hours’ drive.  It is warm, cloudy, and looks like a tempest; we are too tired for much effort.

“Mrs. Fogg, of Nashville, took us to call on the widow of President Polk.  We found her at home, though apparently just ready for a walk.  She is still in mourning, and tells me that she has not travelled fifty miles from home in the last eight years.

“She spoke to me of Governor Briggs (of Massachusetts), an old friend; of Professor Hare; and said that among her cards, on her return from a journey some years ago, she found Charles Sumner’s; and forgetting at the moment who he was, she asked the servant who he was.  ’The Abolitionist Senator from Massachusetts—­I asked him in,’ was the reply.

“Mrs. Polk talks readily, is handsome, elegant in figure, and shows at once that she is well read.  She told me that she reads all the newspaper reports of the progress of science.  She lives simply, as any New England woman would, though her house is larger than most private residences.

“Mrs. Fogg told me many anecdotes of Dorothea Dix.  That lady was, at one time, travelling alone, and was obliged to stop at some little village tavern.  As she lay half asleep upon the sofa, the driver of the stage in which she was to take passage came into the room, approached her, and held a light to her closed eyes.  She did not dare to move nor utter a sound, but when he turned away she opened her eyes and watched him.  He went to the mail-bags, opened them, took out the letters, hastily broke the seals, took out money enclosed, put it into his pocket, closed the bags, and again approached her with his lamp.  She shut her eyes and pretended to sleep again; then at the proper time entered the stage and pursued her journey.  At the end of the journey she reported his conduct to the proper authorities.

“I was a little doubtful about the propriety of going to the Mammoth Cave without a gentleman escort, but if two ladies travel alone they must have the courage of men.  So I called the landlord as soon as we arrived at the Cave House, and asked if we could have Mat, who I had been told was the best guide now that Stephen is ill.  The landlord promised Mat to me for two days.  After dinner we made our first attempt.

“The ground descends for some two hundred feet towards the mouth of the cave; then you come to a low hill, and you descend through a small aperture not at all imposing, in front of which trickles a little stream.  For some little while we needed no light, but soon the guide lighted and gave to each of us a little lamp.  Mat took the lead, I came next, Miss S. followed, and an old slave brought up in the rear.

“I confess that I shuddered as I came into the darkness.  Our lamps, of course, gave but feeble light; we barely saw at first where our feet must step.