“Like to change?” enquired Paul curtly.

“No; it would make no difference.  You are as heavy as I, although I am wider!  Ah! there are the lights of Tver.”

Ahead of them a few lights twinkled feebly, sometimes visible and then hidden again as they rode over the rolling hillocks.  One plain ever suggests another, but the resemblance between the steppes of Tver and the great Sahara is at times startling.  There is in both that roll as of the sea—­the great roll that heaves unceasingly round the Capes of Good Hope and Horn.  Looked at casually, Tver and Sahara’s plains are level, and it is only in crossing them that one realizes the gentle up and down beneath the horses’ feet.

Soon Steinmetz raised his head and sniffed in a loud Teutonic manner.  It was the reek of water; for great rivers, like the ocean, have their smell.  And the Volga is a revelation.  Men travel far to see a city, but few seem curious about a river.  Every river has, nevertheless, its individuality, its great silent interest.  Every river has, moreover, its influence, which extends to the people who pass their lives within sight of its waters.  Thus the Guadalquivir is rapid, mysterious, untrammelled—­breaking frequently from its boundary.  And it runs through Andalusia.  The Nile—­the river of ages—­runs clear, untroubled through the centuries, between banks untouched by man.  The Rhine—­romantic, cultivated, artificial, with a rough subcurrent and a muddy bed—­through Germany.  The Seine and the Thames—­shallow—­shallow—­shallow.  And we—­who live upon their banks!

The Volga—­immense, stupendous, a great power, an influence two thousand four hundred miles long.  Some have seen the Danube, and think they have seen a great river.  So they have; but the Russian giant is seven hundred miles longer.  A vast yellow stream, moving on to the distant sea—­slow, gentle, inexorable, overwhelming.

All great things in nature have the power of crushing the human intellect.  Russians are thus crushed by the vastness of their country, of their rivers.  Man is but a small thing in a great country, and those who live by Nile, or Guadalquivir, or Volga seem to hold their lives on condition.  They exist from day to day by the tolerance of their river.

Steinmetz and Paul paused for a moment on the wooden floating bridge and looked at the great river.  All who cross that bridge, or the railway bridge higher up the stream, must do the same.  They pause and draw a deep breath, as if in the presence of something supernatural.

They rode on without speaking through the squalid town—­the whilom rival and the victim of brilliant Moscow.  They rode straight to the station, where they dined in, by the way, one of the best railway refreshment rooms in the world.  At one o’clock the night express from Moscow to St. Petersburg, with its huge American locomotive, rumbled into the station.  Paul secured a chair in the long saloon car, and then returned to the platform.  The train waited twenty minutes for refreshments, and he still had much to say to Steinmetz; for one of these men owned a principality and the other governed it.  They walked up and down the long platform, smoking endless cigarettes, talking gravely.