originally Schingled well, that is a well roofed with shingles of wood.  This well stood within the parish of Ifield, but so famous was it, for it was known to every pilgrim, that it presently quite put out the name of the parish, which in 1362 is described as Ifield-juxta-Schyngtedwell, and to this day the place is marked on the maps as Singlewell or Ifield.  A chapel was soon built beside the well and here doubtless the pilgrims prayed and made offerings.  Singlewell, however, must not be confused with St Thomas’s well a mile further on the road, which is still used and still known as St Thomas’s well.

All this proved to me that I was indeed upon the old road, and so I went on across Cobham Park without a thought of the great house, intent now on the noble city of Rochester, which presently as I came over the last hill I saw standing in all its greatness over the broad river of Medway, its mighty castle four square upon the further bank.  Then was I confirmed in my heart in the words of Chaucer—­

         Lo Rouchestre stant here fast by.

CHAPTER III

THE PILGRIMS’ ROAD

ROCHESTER

One comes down the hill into Rochester, through Strood, on this side the Medway, to find little remaining of interest in a place that has now become scarcely more than a suburb of the episcopal city.  Some memory, however, lingers still in Strood of St Thomas, for certain folks there hated him and to spite him one day as he rode through the village they cut the tail from his horse.  Mark now the end of this misdeed.  In Strood thereafter everyone of their descendants was born, it is said, with a tail, even as the brutes which perish.

The church of Strood, restored in 1812, is without interest, but close to the churchyard is the site of a Hospital, founded, in the time of Richard I., who endowed it, by Bishop Glanville of Rochester.  This place must have been known to Chaucer and his pilgrims.  It was dedicated in honour of Our Lady and cared for “the poor, weak, infirm and impotent as well as neighbouring inhabitants or travellers from distant places, until they die or depart healed.”  Those who served it followed the Benedictine Rule.  A singular example of the hatred of these for the monks of Rochester appears in the story of the fight between the monks and the Hospital staff with whom sided the men of Strood and Frinsbury, a village hard by, which took place in the orchard of the Hospital.  The Bishop, however, soon brought all to reason, and as a punishment the men of Strood were obliged to go in procession to Rochester upon each Whit-Monday, carrying the clubs with which they had assaulted the monks.

[Illustration:  The gateway of the monastery close, Rochester]